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Paris: Fast and Furious 2025

~ pmglasser ~ Leave a comment

Monday July 14

After a whirlwind tour of London, we prepared to cross under the English Channel on our way to Paris. Paris is one of my favorite cities, and I have been extremely fortunate to visit it previously; however, this was Nataliya’s first time, so we tried to accommodate her wish list!

Unfortunately, I had developed a nasty eye infection during the last few days in London, so I quickly tried to find a clinic or doctor who could prescribe something before we left for Paris. Like America, the emergency room was full and had a huge waiting list. Fortunately, pharmacists can prescribe medication to treat minor illnesses in Britain, such as my eye infection! In just a few minutes and for approximately $15, I was on my way in time to arrive at the magnificent St. Pancras station which was built in 1868 and is located underneath the beautiful St. Pancras Autograph Collection hotel.

The Eurostar train has its own waiting area, which was standing room only by the time we arrived, so you definitely need to buy your tickets in advance! Two round-trip tickets cost us about $450. The trip was very smooth and convenient. We also watched the picturesque French countryside zip by as we passed by Caen and Lille (cities we would love to return and visit in their own right in the future).

However, I was a little anxious about our arrival because July 14th is Bastille Day (la fête nationale) in France. The holiday commemorates the storming of the Bastille, an infamous prison during the monarchy, which was an early event during the French Revolution in 1789. Celebrations include a military parade and fireworks, as well as street parties organized by local fire departments (known as Bals des Pompiers). I was concerned Paris would be gridlocked with traffic and celebrations, however, most of the street parties are scheduled a day or two before July 14.

We arrived at Gare du Nord and managed to make our way to our apartment immediately adjacent to the former location of the famous Les Halles market. Les Halles was one of the most important fresh food markets in Paris from the 12th century until it was demolished in 1973. The demolition was extremely unpopular with most Parisians and tourists, and a modern shopping center replaced it. This in turn was demolished in 2010 and rebuilt underground. The Chatelet-Les Halles metro station is also very close as is the Louvre and the Centre Pompidou (which closed shortly after we left and is undergoing major renovations until 2030). I was also concerned that the bustling market might be too loud at night even after shops closed, but again my concerns were unwarranted!

We grabbed a few groceries at Monoprix but were slightly confused at the self-checkout lane. It turns out we had to weigh our fresh fruits and vegetables separately before trying to checkout.

After a quick dinner, we hit the streets to try and find a spot where we could see the fireworks along the River Seine. If you can arrange it, watching from a terrace or rooftop is obviously the best vantage point; however, the Right Bank of the Seine (opposite the Eiffel Tower) offers a relatively unobstructed view as well. By the time we arrived, most of the prime spots along the river were packed with crowds. We did manage to snag a street corner in front of the Louvre that had a good view. The fireworks also included drone light displays which were pretty impressive! It was a remarkable way to start the next leg of our whirlwind tour!

Tuesday July 15

For our first full day in Paris, we visited the Picasso National Museum which was also just a short walk away from our apartment. The museum is open seven days a week from 9:30 am to 6 pm. Tickets are about $20.

Picasso settled in Paris in 1904 and lived there until he moved to southern France in 1946. The museum displays nearly 300 of Picasso’s paintings, as well as 300 sculptures, and approximately 2,000 drawings and illustrations. Some of his most iconic works include a self-portrait in 1901 during his “Blue Period” and a portrait of his mistress Dora Maar from 1937 during his Cubist phase. I’m not a huge fan of modern or post-modernist art and prefer more traditional styles. However, Nataliya studied studio art in college and felt like the ambiance of the museum brought out the best of the collection. I would suggest allocating two hours to tour the museum – it’s not huge.

Before dashing off to the next attraction, we stopped for a quick lunch at Le Train Bleu – a famous restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station. Le Train Bleu began as the station’s buffet to serve visitors for the Universal Exposition of 1901. It was renamed in 1963 for the iconic overnight train that connected Paris to Cote d’Azur / French Riviera along the Mediterranean. The grand crystal chandeliers, polished parquet floors, wall frescoes, and gilding transport diners back to the Belle Epoque of the late 1800s and early 1900s. The frescoes highlight the leisure of visiting southern France and its colonies in North Africa.

The menu focuses on classical French recipes (such as a leg of lamb) with seasonal ingredients which all make the restaurant a hotspot for Instagram influencers. Several multi-course set menus are also available ranging from $90-$140. We opted for several a la carte selections including a salad with dried apricots, vegetable tart, fish, and foie gras. Since Le Train Bleu is so popular on Instagram, reservations are limited to one hour and are strictly enforced by the staff. Nevertheless, we highly recommend Le Train Bleu for a mouth-watering meal in a beautiful environment! We had lunch on a Tuesday, and it was still very busy so I would avoid trying to get a table during prime time. We were VERY lucky to get a table without a reservation even on a Tuesday.

After pausing to digest, we sped off to Notre Dame which had only recently reopened after the devastating fire of 2019. I was astounded by the speed and quality of the restoration. Since tickets are free, we had a difficult time trying to schedule a reservation since slots are only available shortly before the allotted time (making it impossible to schedule in advance). Ushers were also turning away visitors who were dressed immodestly, so you should also take that into consideration, especially during the summer!

Built during the 12th and 13th centuries, Notre Dame survived the German occupation of World War II largely unscathed. However, a devastating fire in 2019 destroyed the spire and the timber beams. Incredibly, the façade, walls and buttresses were intact. Almost immediately after the fire, the French government made plans to restore Notre Dame, but I never expected it to be so successful and so quick! Notre Dame is still awe-inspiring although the interior is much more pristine since the restoration included cleaning the interior stone and spraying it with a latex solution. The cleaning has been controversial, as was the addition of a series of new modern stained-glass windows even though the original panes had not been damaged by the fire!

Maintaining our Too Fast Too Furious pace, we squeezed one more destination in the afternoon which I had never been to either – Chateau de Vincennes. The castle is easily accessible from the Metro station of the same name and tickets are inexpensive ($15).

Since the chateau is located on the very edge of Paris, it is far less crowded than the more centrally located destinations. Originally built as a royal hunting lodge in the 12th century, Chateau de Vincennes was fortified with defensive walls and towers during the 14th century. It also served as a royal residence and dungeon which housed the infamous Marquis de Sade during the 18th century. It also houses a chapel inspired by the iconic Saint Chapelle on the ile de cite and is also named after it. Both chapels are quite beautiful. The chateau is also adjacent to the Bois de Vincennes which is the largest park in Paris and covers more than 2,400 acres. The park was originally a royal hunting preserve, and, although we didn’t have time to stroll through it on this trip, I would love to visit it on a return trip.

The castle is impressive from the first moment as you approach the outer walls and moat. We entered through the main gate and walked past a number of stalls offering arts and crafts for sale as part of a summer festival. We visited the Saint Chapelle Chapel first, which was almost completely empty. It features beautiful stained-glass windows, unfortunately, the original glass was destroyed during the Revolution of 1789-1792.

Next, we headed to the original fortress which housed the king’s apartments, as well as a prison and arsenal. The inner keep was surrounded by another set of walls. However, I wasn’t able to explore the upper levels of the tower because of my fear of heights. The main entrance to the tower is a bridge suspended about thirty feet above the ground with no supports underneath. It made me too anxious, so I stayed on the ground floor while Nataliya explored the upper levels. The staircase is a narrow one-way ascent. Nataliya was skeptical at first because of the hodge-podge collection of architectural styles, but she liked it the best before we left! She said the castle exudes history and medieval atmosphere. She describes it as light and elevated as opposed to her expectations of a dark and gloomy medieval castle. Nataliya was thrilled to see it in person since she remembers studying it in art school.

Visitors can also reserve tickets for special tours that explore the attic and upper terrace (approximately $18 additional fee). The castle’s website claims it offers a wonderful panoramic view of Paris since it’s the tallest dungeon in Europe at 165 feet high. Check it out – if you dare!

Wednesday July 16

We started today off slowly with a relaxed American-style brunch at Kozy café. The menu offers a variety of pancakes and waffles that appeal to the tastes of American tourists with huge portions and excessive amounts of sweet toppings. We probably could have shared one dish and maybe an a la carte item but instead ordered two dishes – pancakes with bacon and waffles with fruit. The pancakes (approximately $16) also included candied bacon, a poached egg, sun dried tomatoes, maple syrup and dukkah (a Middle Eastern spice blend). The waffles (approximately $15) came with crispy apple slices, kiwi, toasted hazelnuts, real whipped cream, and maple syrup.

After a long pause to digest, we visited another museum that I had never been to before – the Museum of Decorative Arts. The museum exhibits a wide variety of decorative objects including furniture, fashionable clothes, and graphic art. The general exhibits are free, but the temporary exhibits required a timed reservation (approximately $16). We toured the special exhibit on Paul Poiret, a fashion designer and parfumier.

In the afternoon, I made a long-overdue return to academia by presenting at the 2025 Global Consortium for French Historical Studies conference. I studied French cultural history for my master’s degree from 2011-2014 at the University of Kentucky and wrote my capstone paper on the memoirs of the French resistance during World War II. The theme for the conference was resistance (of any type, not just during World War II) so I felt destined to attend – the conference was the original impetus for the whole trip! For the last several years, I have been revising portions of the master’s research to try and publish it in a scholarly journal, so the conference was the perfect place to get some feedback on my ideas. I was a little anxious since I haven’t presented or published in a decade, but I managed to cut my presentation down to 20 minutes. I practiced reading through it several times which ensured that everything went smoothly at the conference. Nataliya also attended and was very supportive – it was one of my proudest moments recently (besides proposing to Nataliya)! I received some valuable feedback from the participants and have submitted my first article to a journal. While waiting for a response, I’ve already started on my next article!

Thursday July 17

While the conference was a success, the next day started out with a string of setbacks! Our first destination was the magnificent palace of Versailles; however, the most convenient train station was closed so we had to use another station. It wasn’t much further away but numerous problems beset us along the way. When we arrived, it had started to rain, but neither of us had a raincoat or umbrella (despite only a 10% chance according to the weather app)! We tried to find a store that sold one, but we were already drenched by the time we found one at a pharmacy. Then, I left my phone at the cash register when we left! Thankfully I noticed almost immediately, and nobody had stolen it by the time I arrived back at the store. My GPS was very unreliable, so we wandered around Versailles trying to find a café ro re-energize. We stumbled upon the Stray Bean which provided some respite and refreshment. We were already very frustrated and tired before we even arrived at the palace! I felt like this was going to ruin the whole day and maybe even spoil the remainder of the trip, but thankfully it didn’t!

However, the trials weren’t over because I wasn’t able to retrieve our tickets on my phone to my IMMENSE frustration! Apparently, this is a very common problem amongst visitors, since the ticket office was able to retrieve the tickets in their system – a valuable tip if it happens to you! I also learned the important lesson of downloading all the tickets on to my phone for the day before leaving the reliable Wi-Fi at our apartment!

We used the Paris Museum Pass for discounted entry to several museums in a four-day period (approximately $120), including the Versailles palace. However, the gardens and Trianon estate require separate tickets. Because each museum has its own ticketing system, it can be very challenging to keep track of all your login credentials!

I have been lucky enough to visit Versailles and the gardens before, and the palace was as crowded and beautiful as I remember. However, there seemed to be fewer docents than previously so there wasn’t anyone to stop visitors from touching statues or other artifacts. Nataliya felt the palace was somewhat of a letdown and was not as impressive as Catherine the Great’s palace near St. Petersburg (which she had visited as a student). However, Versailles had been mostly abandoned during the French Revolution of 1789-92 and may treasures were looted or confiscated by the revolutionary government. The most iconic room, the Hall of Mirrors, is magnificent but also jam-packed with visitors. Built in the 17th century, the hall contains 357 mirrors as well as 30 paintings on the ceiling. The hall was the site of the Proclamation of the German Empire after the disastrous French defeat in the Franco-Prussian War of 1870, as well as the Treaty of Versailles which ended World War I which reversed the power dynamics.

The gardens are worth a visit for their own sake. Covering 2,000 acres, the gardens feature 50 fountains and more than 800 sculptures (mostly depicting figures from Greco-Roman mythology). There’s also a musical performance at the fountains on Saturday and Sunday between April and November as well. A grand canal that is 1.5 kilometers long was built during the 17th century that allowed the king to host a private fleet of yachts, gondolas, and barges (known as Little Venice). No wonder the French launched a revolution in the face of such outrageous luxury! Today you can rent a rowboat for about $23 per hour.

We grabbed a quick lunch at the Dauphin’s concession stand in the gardens, which offers salads, sandwiches, and buckwheat galettes (similar to a crepe). We had a ham and cheese galette that was inexpensive and tasty, as well as refreshing pistachio ice cream (although not as good as the gelato in London).

After some refreshment, we decided to continue walking to the Trianon estate which is about 1.5 miles from the palace. Other options include bicycle rental ($12 per hour), electric golf carts ($50 per hour), or a shuttle tram ($10 round trip). This part was a new experience for me since I had only visited the main palace. The Trianon estate includes two smaller chateaus (Grand and Petit) although they are both very regal as well. Marie-Antoniette preferred the Petit Trianon as her refuge from the formality of the royal court at Versailles. Later, Napoleon kept the Grand Trianon as an imperial residence which included a distinctive open-air porch with colonnades known as a peristyle. I liked the Grand Trianon and its peristyle compared to the Petit Trianon which was more sparse and modest (likely due to looting and confiscation during the revolution). The only part of the of the estate that we didn’t visit was Marie Antoinette’s hamlet – a rustic retreat that served as a working “model” farm. Despite walking all day, Nataliya preferred to keep strolling back to the main palace without waiting for the shuttle. We took the train back to our apartment and took a long nap before dinner!

I wanted to try something exotic and discovered a little restaurant that specializes in Alsatian flammekueche (a type of tarte flambee, similar to a flatbread pizza). The menu included about a dozen different variations ($15 each) of the same basic recipe which includes a thin, crispy bread topped with crème fraiche, onions, and smoked bacon (lardon). The menu also includes several sweet dessert options, such as apples or banana with chocolate. We shared the “Game of Tomme” variant, which included mushrooms, Alsatian cheese, and substituted ham for bacon. We also shared a salad which were both delicious!  

After digesting, we dashed off for an evening visit to the Musee d’Orsay which has extended hours until 9pm on Thursdays (also included in our museum pass). This is one of my favorite museums since it’s housed in a 19th century train station with a beautiful arched glass roof. Given we only had about an hour, we decided to visit the Impressionist collection on the fifth floor, which includes works by Monet, Manet, Renoir, and Van Gogh. Nataliya also snapped a quick photo through the glass façade of the large clock that faces out towards Montmartre. Given how rushed we were, we didn’t get much of a chance to take in each work of art. Nevertheless, it was a fun evening excursion, although I would recommend you allot yourself more time if possible!

Although the sun was rapidly setting by the time we left, Nataliya wanted to squeeze in another must-see landmark: the Eiffel Tower! We saw it from afar during the firework display, but Nataliya wanted a closer look, so we walked quickly as the sun was setting. The sun had almost completely disappeared by the time we got to Les Invalides, but Rue Saint-Dominique (where my family had previously rented an apartment) offered a relatively unobstructed view. The tower lights up with a glowing illumination for five minutes at the top of every hour after sunset. We arrived at Rue Saint-Dominique only moments before it started! We paused for some selfies and to appreciate the romantic glow before finally heading home to catch some well-deserved sleep!

Friday July 18

This was our final day in Paris, and we took full advantage of our museum pass by visiting the Louvre and the Orangerie. But first, we started with brunch at Angelina on Rue de Rivoli which is conveniently a 10-minute walk from the Louvre. Founded in 1903, Angelina is known for its thick hot chocolate and Mont Blanc desserts. The Mont Blanc is made of thin vermicelli-like ropes of pureed chestnuts topped with whipped cream. The dessert is named for the iconic peak in the Alps since the original version resembled a snow-capped mountain. However, the current offering is inverted with the chestnut puree encasing the cream, which results in a less visually appealing treat. Nataliya was craving the famous hot chocolate and of course we couldn’t skip the main attraction! The Mont Blanc was delicious but also very rich and dense. We also shared the Trocadero pastry with crunchy hazelnut, chocolate cream, hazelnut cream, and Chantilly cream. The Belle-Epoch architecture of the tearoom was also very beautiful, with restored moldings, polished marble tables, and hand-painted frescoes. It’s a perfect destination to get a taste of the elegant Parisian lifestyle. You can also fuel up before visiting the Louvre or refuel afterwards (or both)! The tearoom was very busy, but we didn’t have to wait. Nevertheless, I would still recommend trying to avoid peak hours.

The Louvre is only a short walk away. Originally a fortress, the Louvre (admission about $10 but also qualifies for the Museum Pass) became a royal palace before opening as a museum during the French Revolution in 1793. The museum houses more than 35,000 artifacts, and it would take at least two days to see the entire collection! However, we only had a few hours to visit some of the greatest hits, including Mona Lisa, the Winged Nike, Liberty Leading the People, and the Napoleonic crown jewels (which would be stolen during a dramatic daylight heist only a few months later!).

The Mona Lisa, by Leonardo da Vinci, is in the Denon wing and obviously attracts huge crowds which make it difficult to appreciate the beauty of the work. Winged Nike (the goddess of victory) is displayed at the top of the main staircase. Unearthed in 1863, the statue is one of the few surviving original Greek sculptures as opposed to later Roman copies, which are more numerous. Despite missing the goddess’ head, the statue is still incredibly realistic and a magnificent piece of art! Liberty Leading the People, by Eugene Delacroix, is one of my favorite works and is absolutely massive (about 8.5 feet wide and 10.5 feet tall)! Liberty Leading the People is a tribute to the July Revolution of 1830 not the original Revolution of 1789 as is often assumed! Lastly, the Napoleonic crown jewels were dazzling to behold! Unfortunately, a gang of thieves conducted a brazen daylight robbery where they posed as construction workers. In eight minutes, they stole a necklace, earrings, brooches, and the tiara of Empress Eugenie. The tiara is made of gold and includes more than 50 emeralds and more than 1,300 diamonds! The thieves dropped the tiara, which was badly damaged, but the museum is currently restoring it. The suspected thieves were eventually arrested and are awaiting trial; however, no other jewels have yet been recovered. We remain hopeful that someday they might be!

We had a quick lunch at the Café Mollein, located at the top of the Mollein staircase, where the menu includes sandwiches, salads, and pastries at reasonable prices. We didn’t have to wait too long, and the café has outdoor seating that offers a wonderful view of the main courtyard and Pyramid.

After refueling, we took a quick walk through the Tuileries Garden to the Orangerie Museum (about $13 but also eligible for the Museum Pass) to see Claude Monet’s famous Water Lillies series of paintings. The Museum Pass let us skip the line which is another great benefit! The Orangerie is a specialized greenhouse (which grew oranges and other fruit trees) of the former royal Tuileries palace. The Water Lillies are displayed in two custom-built elliptical galleries designed to give the viewer an illusion of “wave without horizon and without shore.” The paintings depict lilies in the garden of his home in Giverny, about 50 miles northwest of Paris (a popular day trip destination). I love the paintings because they showcase Monet’s use of layering and texture to capture the surface of the water.

Since this was our last night in Paris, Nataliya wanted to use every last minute we had. Although it had been a long day, and I was very tired – Nataliya convinced me to go to Montmartre with her for our final adventure. We took the Metro and got out to snap a quick picture at the Moulin Rouge. We had considered attending a cabaret show at either Moulin Rouge or Crazy Horse, but both cost about $300 and conclude late in the evening.

As the sun was setting, we hiked uphill to Sacre Coeur – the iconic white basilica overlooking the city. If we hadn’t been in such a rush, we might have had time to linger and savor the romantic atmosphere as we gazed out over the cityscape. I first visited Sacre Coeur on a school trip more than 25 years ago, and I was surprised to see it again. At the time, I never even imagined I would be back and certainly not 25 years later on a romantic evening escapade. Next time, I hope we aren’t as rushed as we were in 2025.

Saturday, July 19

Our journey home had several legs, and I was worried that something might go wrong along the way that could leave us stranded. Fortunately, we only made one small mistake and still arrived on time. Our journey began at the Gare du Nord station where we took the Eurostar train back across northern France and through the Chunnel to London (which took about 2.5 hours). I was sad to see the French countryside go by in a blur but look forward to seeing in again in the future.

After arriving back at St. Pancras, we took the Tube to Heathrow (1 hour), although we missed one stop where we had to change lines. We had to double back but still made it to the airport and through security on time! It was an appropriately rushed ending to our Too Fast Too Furiously paced trip. I cherished my time in Paris with Nataliya, and we plan on returning – hopefully with a slower tempo!

London: Fast and Furious 2025

~ pmglasser ~ Leave a comment

Only a week after Nataliya’s son returned from a school-sponsored whirlwind tour of Europe, Natalia and I set off on our own blitz from London to Paris in July.

Thursday, July 10

After a smooth overnight flight, we made a quick stop to drop off our luggage at our Airbnb rental near Regent’s Park before dashing off to Shakespear’s Globe Theatre. However, we took an Uber ride instead of trying to navigate the Tube, which turned out to be a big mistake! It took more than 60 minutes to cover about 4 miles even though it was the middle of the afternoon.

The ushers at the Globe Theatre graciously allowed us to take our seats for a Wild West version of Romeo and Juliet (complete with cowboy hats and revolvers) even though we were more than 30 minutes late! The original Globe Theatre burned down in 1613 but was rebuilt in 1997 on the original foundation. Our seats were in the very corner of the theater, and several pillars obstructed our view. I definitely recommend paying extra to rent a cushion since the seats are bare wooden benches.

Arriving in the middle of the performance, I was somewhat disoriented since it took me a few minutes to adjust to the iambic pentameter. We also couldn’t see or hear very well, but we were thrilled to be in the magnificent Globe Theatre! It was also extremely hot, although we were lucky enough to avoid the “heat dome” that had plagued London only a few days before we arrived! I pitied the patrons who were stuck in the standing room only general admission section in the middle of the theater – at least we got to sit down on our rented cushions!

Due to the heat, and our poor choice of seats, we decided to duck our early as well and eat an early dinner at the adjacent Swan restaurant. We both had chicken Caesar salads and shared a hummus platter. I was pleasantly surprised to find a non-alcoholic beer on the menu, a light and refreshing Helles lager from a Scottish brewery.

This was our first trip to London, and one of Nataliya’s top destinations, the Borough Market, was only a 10-minute walk away. After dinner, we dashed off to the market and arrived a few minutes before closing (5pm). The market traces its history as far back as the year 1276 and features dozens of vendors, including several bakeries. Nataliya made a beeline for Bread Ahead bakery which has a strong social media presence that highlights their filled doughnuts. Nataliya picked the crème bruleè variant and I went with a traditional raspberry jam filling – they were both delicious, although large enough to share! However, we returned again at a later date and discovered the real secret – at the end of the day, another bakery, Comptoir, offered steep discounts on pastries (3 for 10 Euro), while the hyper popular Bread Ahead did not!

After dessert, we walked off some of our calories by crossing the River Thames and past St. Paul’s Cathedral. Completed in 1710, the Cathedral has hosted many royal festivities including the wedding of Prince Charles and Lady Diana in 1981 and Queen Elizabeth II’s golden and diamond jubilees. Not being rushed, we completed our return journey on the Tube which was fairly easy to navigate and very affordable!

There are numerous attractions along the River Thames, and the replica of the Golden Hinde is one that I would like to see on our next visit. The Golden Hinde is a replica of the galleon Sir Frances Drake used to circumnavigate the globe in the 16th century. Built in 1973, the replica is seaworthy and sailed all the way to Japan to film a TV miniseries.

Unfortunately, the nights were still very hot, and our apartment did not have American-style air conditioning, only a couple of portable water-cooled fans. It took us a few days to figure out how exactly they worked, which added to our discomfort.

Friday July 11

Today we visited several iconic London destinations and enjoyed a classic afternoon tea. This all would have delighted my late grandmother who adored the British royal family. She subscribed to the Royalty magazine and wrote letters to the Queen.

Thus, it is very fitting that we started out with a visit to Buckingham Palace. King George III acquired Buckingham Palace in 1761, and it serves as the administrative center of the monarchy, as well as a royal residence. When we visited, the king was not in residence (as indicated by the Union flag as opposed to the royal standard being flown). You can also see the changing of the guards at 11 a.m. daily although you should arrive early to secure a good view.

We had tickets for the standard tour (about $43 per person) which includes the State Rooms as well as the Picture Gallery and throne room. The throne room is used for royal ceremonies, and the State Rooms are used to entertain various diplomatic and VIP guests. The State Rooms were designed by John Nash when King George IV expanded Buckingham from a residence to a grand palace in 1825. The Picture Gallery displays some of the art from the royal collection, including Titian, Rembrandt, and Rubens.

The palace was vast and sumptuous. My late grandmother would have been overjoyed to have had to the option to live vicariously through my visit. It felt like we were peaking behind the curtain while we were on the tour since the halls and rooms are still used regularly. However, the beautiful and enormous palace is also in the midst of a controversial 10-year renovation plan with an estimated cost of nearly $500 million. The repairs will update wiring and heating systems to make them more efficient, but many Britons are opposed to using taxpayer funds for the project.

After we finished the tour, we grabbed a quick snack at the café and browsed through the gift shop.  Buckingham Palace also houses another art collection in the King’s Gallery as well as 39 acres of gardens which each require a separate ticket (about $25 per person and $22 per person respectively).

Next, we hopped on the Metro and headed to the London Secret Garden, on Cromwell Road in the Earl’s Court neighborhood, for brunch. Afternoon tea was one of the top priorities on Nataliya’s list of activities and the hardest part of planning the trip might have been sifting through dozens of options for afternoon tea that offered all sorts of thematic gimmicks ranging from Sherlock Holmes to Alice in Wonderland. The London Secret Garden turned out to be a great example and offers its own gimmick with air-conditioned domes.

I tend to prefer fruity or citrus-infused teas, so I picked the Wild Encounter tea since it includes berries and tropical fruits. The menu was very substantial and featured a variety of canapes, two scones (one with raisin and one without) with jam and clotted cream, several types of savory sandwiches, and a selection of sweet desserts including macarons, mini cheesecake, and chocolate cake. I enjoyed everything except for the sandwich with egg mayonnaise which I have never liked. The price was also very reasonable compared to many of the more elaborate thematic options. The environment was also very scenic since the historic St. Stephen’s Church, built in 1867, creates a great background.

But our day wasn’t over – far from it! We jumped on an iconic double-decker bus that took us to Notting Hill. However, after being spoiled by the Secret Garden’s air-conditioned dining domes, the bus’s lack of cooling caught us off guard!

Notting Hill was another one of Nataliya’s top destinations due to her love of the 1999 romantic comedy film of the same name starring Julia Roberts and Hugh Grant. The area is home to several iconic locations in the film, including the famous “Blue Door” apartment at 280 Westbourne Park Road. However, it should not be confused with the nearby boutique of the same name on Portobello Road.

After stopping for a quick photo at the Blue Door apartment, we perused the Portobello Road Market which is open every day from approximately 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. during the summer (with shorter hours during the winter). The market dates back to the 19th century and became known for its antiques after World War II. Today, it features hundreds of vendors, including jewelry, clothes, and fresh fruits and vegetables. Friday and Saturday are the busiest days, but not all the stalls are open during the week. In addition, the Notting Hill neighborhood boasts a number of local shops and restaurants to consider as well. Since it was so hot, we stopped for a refreshing pistachio gelato (the signature offering) at Gelateria 3Bis. Natalia found a few good deals on clothing that she couldn’t resist before we headed back to the apartment after another long, hot day!

Saturday July 12

Today, we finally visited one of the most iconic destinations in the city – the Tower of London (admission approximately $47)! We opted to pay a little more for the audio guide, and I would suggest that you allow at least three to four hours to visit the Tower. The original portion of the Tower was built by William the Conqueror after his successful invasion in 1066. It served as a fortress, royal residence, armory, treasury, and most famously as the home of the Crown Jewels. Parts of the compound were damaged in a fire in 1841.

We started out by visiting the raven cages which are a key part of the legendary status of the Tower. A 17th century prophecy foretold the end of the British monarchy if the ravens ever left the Tower; ever since then, at least six ravens have been kept there under the care of a Raven Master. A plaque near the cages described the personality of one raven as being overly dramatic – if she doesn’t get enough attention, she will roll over and play dead!

The central part of the fortress, known as the White Tower, houses three floors of arms and armor collected over the centuries, including a suit of armor once said to belong to a giant. One of the highlights of the collection is the Line of Kings which features suits of armor (representing historical monarchs) mounted atop wooden horses.

We grabbed a snack at the Raven Café which featured a delicious bratwurst with lots of toppings and spicy mustard for approximately $11. Later, we grabbed a full lunch at the New Armories Café which features a full menu of soups, sandwiches, salads, and dessert. We picked a classic – fish and chips with mushy peas. The café was crowded but the food was better than most of the options at American museums.

There are also several daily events at the Tower including the Ceremony of the Word at 3 p.m. at the Bloody Tower where the daily password is changed. A special ticket is required for the Ceremony of the Keys which occurs nightly at 9:30 p.m. when the guards (Yeoman Warders) lock the main gates.

However, I decided to skip the main attraction, the Crown Jewels, since I also had tickets to visit the Churchill War Rooms in the afternoon. However, Nataliya decided to stay and see the jewels. She said it only took about 25 minutes to make it through the line (or as the British call it the queue), but once you go into the exhibit you can’t take any photos. In addition, all the visitors must walk along a slow-moving conveyor belt to view the jewels in order to prevent loitering. You are only allowed to go around the circuit twice and the eagle-eyed docents stay on the alert for anyone going over the limit! Nataliya says it was worth the wait since the jewels were so spectacular!

The Churchill War Rooms (admission approximately $44) are located right next to St. James’ Park and Westminster Palace (which houses Parliament) so I got to see Big Ben when I left the Westminster tube station. Built in 1936, the Churchill War Rooms are often called bunkers, but I learned that terminology is technically incorrect. Rather, the war rooms are a reinforced basement protected by a 5-foot layer of concrete. I would recommend around two hours to see everything in the war rooms.

The war rooms housed meeting space for Churchill and his war cabinet as well as personal quarters for him and many staff. The war rooms were in continuous use from 1939 until the Japanese surrender in August 1945. The next day, the war rooms were vacated and remained just as they were left until 1984 when the museum opened to the public.

The first chamber in the war rooms is impressive in its meticulous preservation – the exact same chair in which Churchill sat remains and still bears the scratches his fingernails and wedding ring left. The war rooms also contain a museum dedicated to Churchill’s career that is very thorough but slightly disorganized. The museum starts with Churchill’s wartime accomplishments but then goes back in time to his childhood and early career. The Map Room was also pretty interesting since it displayed all sorts of maps and charts that military commanders used to track military operations around the world. It gives you an idea of the truly global scale of the conflict and the amazing coordination and logistics that were required to conduct operations in an era before cellphones or the internet!

Keeping with the British obsession with afternoon tea, you can even have that experience in the War Rooms (approximately $104). Although intriguing, I preferred our session at the Magic Garden, and I was ready for a full meal at this point.

I decided to take a stroll through St. James’ Park and grab a quick dinner at the café, which offers burgers (approximately $25), salads, and, much to my surprise, non-alcoholic beer. The park was peaceful and features a pretty lake that houses pelicans and numerous other species of waterfowl. King James I established the park in 1803, and the park has been home to about 40 pelicans since the Russian ambassador gifted them to King Charles II in 1664.

This little jaunt took me all the way back to Buckingham Palace, which is adjacent to the park, so better planning might have saved us some time and energy running around the city! When planning your own agenda, there are numerous other attractions nearby besides the war rooms and Big Ben to consider, including several military museums and the National Gallery.

Sunday July 13

Today was our last full day in London and we maintained the fast and furious pace! We started out with a tour on the HMS Belfast (approximately $31), a Royal Navy cruiser that fought in numerous battles during World War II.

Belfast was constructed and commissioned only a month before World War II erupted. The ship helped locate and sink the German battlecruiser Scharnhorst in 1943 and bombarded German defenses during D-Day in 1944. Belfast was deployed to the Pacific Ocean after the war ended and conducted patrols during the Korean War. Belfast was decommissioned in 1963 and was scheduled to be scrapped in 1971; however, veterans and advocates persuaded the British government to preserve Belfast as a museum ship that same year.

Nataliya also had a lot of foresight and bought a scale model of the Belfast in the museum store as a Christmas gift for me.

I would recommend allocating around two hours to visit the Belfast. There are several narrow staircases to climb as you move between decks. We used the audio guide which was organized thematically since visitors can wander through different sections of the ship in any order. We found the printed map was a little hard to use due to the cramped conditions on the ship.

The exhibits do an excellent job of portraying living conditions aboard the ship; guests can even participate in a fun scavenger hunt to locate all the stuffed cats hidden throughout the ship to represent the ship’s real-life feline residents. The engine room contains four massive boilers that would have produced an immense amount of heat and noise! The same goes for the ship’s four turrets, which each contained three guns capable of firing six-inch shells.

The Belfast also has a partnership with the video game studio that developed the World of Warships game, so we received game vouchers along with our tickets. The Belfast also houses a World of Warships “command center” where guests can control the Belfast in a simulated naval battle! I was excited to try it out, but we couldn’t locate it on the confusing map before it was time to leave unfortunately.

We dashed back to the Borough Market for a quick lunch at the Brood restaurant. We opted to share the falafel lunch box which was absolutely delicious! The crispy falafel was some of the best I’ve had, along with halloumi (a cheese from Cyprus), rice, hummus, salsa and a salad. Everything was so fresh and tasty that I was sorry we didn’t have time to savor it.

Next, we sprinted towards Victoria Station for the first leg of our Harry Potter studio tour (approximately $79)! This was Nataliya’s most anticipated attraction of the whole trip since she is an avid Harry Potter fan! It is extremely important to book tickets for the tour as early as possible since it is so popular. We decided to book tickets that included bus transport to and from the studio which were more expensive (approximately an additional $65) but saved a lot of hassle. Since Victoria Station is so huge, and my GPS service was not very strong, it took us a little while to wander around and find the right spot. Eventually we arrived on time although a little tired and frustrated.

The bus trip took about 45 minutes, and we arrived for a late afternoon admission. You could easily spend nearly a whole day at the enormous studios, which originally housed an aircraft factory during World War II, that cover 150,000 square feet! The studios had previously been used to film the 1995 James Bond film GoldenEye and the 1999 Star Wars prequel The Phantom Menace prior to the Harry Potter series.

The studio is impressive from the first moment you walk into it and are greeted by the massive dragon suspended from the ceiling! Since we arrived a little before our scheduled admission, we ordered a milkshake piled high with toppings from the Frog Café in the lobby.

After a brief orientation, the tour starts in the iconic Great Hall of Hogwarts, with the magical candles floating in midair. Next comes a seemingly endless onslaught of props (more than 38,000) and costumes (more than 25,000) from the films. I’m a casual Harry Potter fan and even I was blown away by quality and massive number of exhibits. There are also some fun interactive events (we saw the procession of dancers from the Tri-Wizard Tournament) as well as seasonal activities that might make it worthwhile to visit again. Platform 9 and ¾ was another highlight although we had a lot of fun actually riding the Hogwarts Express at Universal Studios in Orlando a few years ago.

Halfway through the tour, we stopped at the Backlot Café for dinner which included BBQ chicken wings and a superfood salad. Again, the food was much better than any amusement park meal we’ve had back home – the salad was especially fresh and tasty. More fascinating exhibits awaited us, including the famed Gringott’s vault, Diagon Alley, and an enormous model of Hogwarts that measures more than 50 feet across! As a scale model builder, this was one of the most impressive displays since it includes 2,500 fiber optic lights! Nearly 90 artists worked on it for almost a year. At the end of the tour, I wondered why Star Wars hasn’t capitalized on a similar endeavor that would surely bring in as much revenue, if not more? I realized there are some similar attractions such as Galaxy’s Edge at Disney’s Hollywood Studios as well as occasional touring museum exhibits of props and costumes. Galaxy’s Edge felt more immersive, and I will NEVER forget being able to pilot the Millenium Falcon with Nataliya! But the Harry Potter Studio makes up for in scale what it might lack in immersion.

Exhausted after four full days of excitement, we got back on the bus and headed home. Tomorrow, we would begin the second leg of our European tour in Paris! Having only scratched the surface in London, we still have a lot to look forward to on a return trip in the future!