Only two weeks after my quick trip to NYC with Nataliya, I went on a solo trip to Cleveland for a concert, but that turned out to be the least interesting part of the trip.

I’ve been a fan of Sabaton, a Swedish power metal band, for about five years. They frequently tour the United States and Cleveland was the closest show this time around. The show was on a Sunday night so left late on Saturday and came back Monday.

I had planned to see a movie at the historic Cedar Lee theater (which opened in 1925), but I left Cincinnati later than I planned. I love our local independent cinemas, such as the Esquire, and wanted to see how Cleveland stacked up. I’ll add Cedar Lee to the list for next time. Visiting local theaters is a personal theme of mine. In 2018, I went to the Filmotheque in Paris which was one of my favorite moments and plan to stop at Le Grand Rex later this year. I also plan to visit the Metrograph next time I’m back in NYC.

After arriving in Cleveland, I did eat a pretty good Ethiopian meal at Zoma. I had the special lamb tibs with onion, rosemary, jalapeno and garlic. It was very flavor and had the right amount of spice. The lamb was a little tough but seemed more tender when I warmed up the leftovers later. The entrée included a huge amount of food, including an abundance of injera, the spongy flatbread that is an Ethiopian staple. However, the red lentils stole the show! Afterwards, I walked across the street to Mitchell’s Fine Chocolates to pick up a box of caramels for Nataliya.

I stayed at the Tudor Arms Hotel which was built in 1933 in the Gothic revival style. Originally, a private club occupied the 12-story building. After an extensive renovation in 2011, it reopened as a hotel. Upon arrival, the clerk offered me a complimentary warm cookie which was very tasty and a nice touch. The rooms were spacious, clean and modern. The hotel retained much of its historic charm as well. Apparently, tours of the entire facility are available, but I didn’t have the opportunity. I will certainly stay again and plan to avail myself next time.

On Sunday night, I asked to switch rooms to a lower floor so I would sleep easier at night due to my acrophobia (fear of heights) and the staff were very accommodating. My only complaint was the morning breakfast buffet which was not worth the price. The French toast, sausage and eggs were all mediocre. On Monday morning, I opted for breakfast at Presti’s Bakery instead which was a delicious alternative!

Sunday was a fun-filled day. The Cleveland Museum of Art was my first stop. Admission is free, but I was a little surprised by the $16 daily parking fee (although I happily paid).

An additional ticket ($15) was required for a special Michelangelo exhibit. I was excited to see more than 20 drawings by the artist which were on display for the first time in the US. The exhibit presented an overview of Michelangelo and his work. I found the section on stencils, brushes and inks very interesting. It was fascinating to see his crosshatching technique up close, but after a while I grew tired of seeing sketches of naked men over and over again.

I also had a ticket to see a “Ophelia”(a film based on the female character from Shakespeare’s Hamlet) at the museum. It took the classic story and told it from Ophelia’s perspective, rather than Hamlet’s, which was an interesting twist.

I spent the remaining time trying to see as much of the Cleveland museums’ extensive collection as possible. The armor collection features many pieces of lavishly decorated weapons and armor. I also enjoyed the ancient Egyptian and ancient Greek collection, especially the mosaics and black-figure pottery. I love the stylized contrast and sharp details of the Greek black-figure pottery. The Cleveland museum also has a collection of medieval French tapestries and Native American artifacts as well. I was inspired and awed by the craftsmanship, as well as the durability of the artifacts which had survived centuries or even millennia. The artists spoke to me across the millennia, which made ancient history seem not so abstract and lifeless. The collection is so large that I could easily spend several days to truly appreciate it all.

The museum also has one of 25 castings of Rodin’s iconic “Thinker” sculpture. In 1970, a bomb blast damaged the statue which has not been repaired. The unrestored statue speaks to the political violence and instability of the era.

I stopped for lunch at the museum café and had a very tasty tandoori chicken wrap. The wrap was overly stuffed with chicken and was very flavorful. There’s also a fine-dining restaurant as well.

The museum was originally housed in a beautiful Beaux Arts style building constructed in 1916. However, a subsequent 1971 addition created a hideous blocky exterior. A large interior atrium in between the two buildings features a small interior garden and also hosted an interesting exhibit by a Nigerian artist called Ama: the Gathering Place. The exhibit included traditional African songs, a tree sculpture and traditional textiles.

Afterwards, I explored the vicinity with the remaining daylight, including the Wade Fine Arts Garden and the Cleveland Cultural Garden trail. My first discovery was a rather unusual one, and I didn’t really know what it was until later when I did a little googling. Apparently, this is the Bloch Cancer Survivor’s Plaza. The sculpture shows 8 people passing through a series of doorways which is supposed to represent treatment and recovery. At the time, I felt rather mystified by the sculpture. The tower is a little out of place and not very appealing. At one point, a fountain and floating sphere were located underneath the tower, but only a plugged-up base remains. A number of “inspirational” quotes on plaques surround the base of the tower as well. The tower is spotted with rust and seems somewhat neglected. Inexplicably, the plaza has a single two-star review on google. Two stars might be a little harsh, but three might be more appropriate.

Apparently, the plaza is one of more than 20 built around the country by the Richard & Annette Bloch Cancer Foundation. Later, I showed my pictures to the cancer support group I attend, and their reactions were mostly perplexed and slightly repulsed (similar to mine). I found the “inspirational” quotes to be slightly cheesy, but the plaza might be more appealing if it were better maintained. Some people might find it to be uplifting, but I did not.

I also stumbled upon the Cleveland Cultural Garden trail which eventually ends near Lake Erie. The first garden was created in 1916 with the goal of creating peace through understanding. Over the decades, the number of gardens grew to more than 30 and 8 more are being planned. The gardens represent many different communities from across Europe as well as Asia and Native Americans. The gardens usually feature statues or inscriptions that honor writers, artists, philosophers or composers.

The gardens are a great idea; however, I did not find them to be very peaceful or quiet. Rather, the gardens are only a few feet away from Martin Luther King Jr. Drive which is a major roadway. Regrettably, the constant road noise did little to foster a contemplative atmosphere.

I managed to catch a scenic view of the setting sun at the nearby Lakefront Nature Preserve. Although the view was great, you can’t see the swarms of flies in my picture. In addition, Interstate 90 was a immediately behind me which also was also a distraction. Afterwards, I went in search of a snack.

I decided to try Miega Korean Barbeque, located in the “New Chinatown” neighborhood. The restaurant is in a shopping center that also houses a martial arts studio, a dance studio, an Asian grocery store and Chinese tax advisor office. I wasn’t that hungry due to my hefty lunch, so I only had some dumplings with beef, peppers and carrot that were pretty good. The kimchi was spicy but not overly so.

After all that, I finally headed out for the event that had inspired the whole trip – the Sabaton performance at the Agora Theater. Originally built in 1913, the Agora has been a significant venue in Cleveland for more than a century. A recent $3 million renovation made some major improvements, but this was my first time there. In the end, the event that inspired the whole trip was probably the least entertaining activity from the whole excursion. I had a seat in the balcony which had a good view of the stage. However, the show started late and Sabaton didn’t go on until well past my bedtime. The band’s overly macho persona is also wearing thin.

I’ve seen Sabaton several times, but this show overloaded my senses. The music was loud, and a video projected onto a screen at the back of the stage only added to the stimulus. In addition, the rows of seats were too close together, so I sat hunched up in the balcony. In the end, I could barely keep my eyes open. I left and didn’t stay for any encores. I feel so old after writing this!

On Monday, I skipped the mediocre breakfast buffet at the Tudor Arms and opted for Presti’s Bakery, a local fixture in Cleveland’s Little Italy neighborhood since 1903. I had a sausage breakfast sandwich which was very flavorful and a huge double chocolate muffin which the server warmed up. The café has lots of large windows that let in a lot of sunlight and several colorful murals that really make the interior warm and vibrant.

Before heading back to Cincinnati, I made one final stop in Cleveland. Since 2015, I have taught online world history classes for Notre Dame College(not to be confused with the famous university). Notre Dame began as a Catholic school for women and became a co-educational institution in 2001. The beautiful Administration Building was built in 1927 in the Tudor Revival. In 1983, it was added to the National Register of Historic Places due to its architectural significance.

Although I have taught for Notre Dame for more than 4 years, I had never actually been on campus before. I was hired over the phone and always worked remotely. The campus is small but very picturesque, especially with several large trees in the center of the property. The interior of the Administration Building is also beautiful, but some of the basic amenities, such as toilets and desks, are a little outdated.

On my way home, I made a short detour in Columbus to the German Village neighborhood. Nataliya and I had previously visited Schmidt’s Fudge Haus, so I stopped to surprise her with her favorite gigantic crème puff. I also picked up some delicious Belgian fudge and grabbed lunch at the nearby Brown Bag Delicatessen. I opted for the cranberry apple salad which was also enormous! I really only needed a “side salad” size as opposed to the “entrée” which I had ordered. The salad was delicious and overflowing with fresh crisp apples and cranberries.

Finally, I took a short stroll through Schiller Park since it was a beautiful fall day. It is a small park but very pretty and quiet, considering it’s in the middle of the city. The trees were full of color. Feeling refreshed, the last leg of the journey went by quickly. I was glad to be home. After my Blitz across Ohio and my weekend in NYC, I was looking forward to a few quiet weeks before Nataliya and I went to Las Vegas.

I would love to spend another weekend in Cleveland soon. As a history lover, I aim to stop at the USS Cod, which was a World War II submarine. The ship conducted seven combat patrols and became a museum ship in 1976.

I haven’t been able to drink alcohol since I began my treatment, but I would also love to visit the Great Lakes brewpub. Great Lakes was one of my favorite breweries and was the first craft brewer in Ohio. In fact, when I was first diagnosed, this had been one of the first activities I added to my “life list” (as opposed to a bucket list), since I had long considered making such a pilgrimage. I had intended to stop by on this trip but didn’t have enough time. I don’t think it would hurt to have a literal sip of something unique on tap next time.

Other attractions might include the historic Cleveland Arcade, which opened as America’s first shopping mall in 1890. The dramatic Victorian architecture features a massive skylight that rightfully earned the nickname of the “Crystal Palace.”

Nataliya and I usually visit Findlay Market in Cincinnati once or twice a month, and the West Side Market in Cleveland looks like a diverse and attractive competitor.

We both love hiking, and, unbeknownst to me, Cleveland is nicknamed the “Forest City.” Numerous parks and nature preserves are nearby, and the Cuyahoga Valley National Park looks like a lot of fun, especially with a scenic train ride.

Women’s history is one of my favorite topics, and the International Women’s Air and Space Museum might be interesting. It looks like the facility is a small, but admission is free.

Last year, Nataliya and I went to New York just to see a show with Tom Hiddleston – her favorite actor.

I had visited the city once briefly in 2016 and Nataliya has been multiple times. It was a great weekend getaway, and I look forward to returning. We learned a lot about how to travel together, and it helped prepare for our extended trip to Las Vegas.

Part I – October 2019

Nataliya bought tickets to the show and the flight for us as a delayed birthday gift to herself in October. She was worried I might think she was being too impulsive, but it was a great surprise! We flew into LaGuardia on Frontier Friday night and came back Monday morning, which I think is a perfect amount of time in the city.

Our flight was delayed an hour leaving CVG which meant we didn’t land until 11 p.m. LaGuardia resembled a war zone with construction underway as far as I could see. We hired a rideshare van to take us to our hotel which was a great idea. I could never have found my way out of the chaotic labyrinth of construction barriers. It took a little wandering to find the rendezvous point, but we counted ourselves lucky – other people waited hours for their ride. It was about 1 a.m. before we finally stumbled into our room at Pod 51 in midtown.

The room was so small I could spread my arms and touch both sides at once. But I didn’t care – we were usually so tired we just collapsed in bed each night, and tonight was no exception.

On Saturday morning, we had breakfast around the corner at Le Pain Quotidien – a boulangerie. The ginger tea and French crème donut were tasty.

Pod 51 was only about a 5-minute walk from the 51^st street subway station, which made it easy to get around. The only difficulty came when we tried to figure out which train was the right one. Nataliya was much more eager to leap on the first train that came by while I preferred to try and decipher the system. While we were initially trying to figure out the subway system, Nataliya leapt onto the first train that came while I urged her to wait until we were sure we had the right one. It was a little frustrating at first, but we both learned a lot about each other and eventually struck a good balance between our two different attitudes.

Nataliya’s first instinct was wrong, but, after one brief detour, we reached our first destination – The Vessel (TKA). Nataliya had previously walked all the way to the top, but we just stopped for a picture this time. A reservation (free) is required to enter The Vessel, but we had not booked one. Plus, I probably would only have been able to climb up two or three stories without taking some anxiety medication due to my fear of heights. Usually, I’m not a fan of modern architecture, but it is a pretty neat piece that certainly adds some novelty to the city’s landscape.

The weather was a little overcast and the temperature was about 50 degrees which made it a pretty good day to visit the High Line. The High Line is an old elevated train line that has been converted in a walking path. It stretches about 1.5 miles along the west side of Manhattan. Lots of other people had the same idea due to the nice weather, so the path was crowded. The path was very verdant! I had expected only a few planters or maybe some small garden plots at best, but the High Line was quite lush. There were several colorful art installations as well, and we saw some more interesting architecture as well. There were several kiosks selling interesting artwork and other crafts, as well as a couple food stalls. I would love to see something like this in Cincinnati! The High Line is an excellent way to renew the city’s landscape, and I look forward to seeing how the Coulée verte René-Dumont (formerly the Promenade Plantée) in Paris compares when I visit later this year (hopefully!).

After our tour, we rushed overto the Bernard Jacobs Theater to catch the matinee performance of “Betrayal,” by famed British playwright Harold Pinter. The line stretched down the block and the crowd bunched up inside the theater too. Built in 1927 in a “modern Spanish” style, the theater’s interior is lavishly decorated with murals depicting the “Lovers of Spain.”

The play is set in the 1960s and 70s and features a main cast of just three actors, including Nataliya’s favorite Tom Hiddleston. Pinter based it on his experience while conducting an affair with a television presenter. Friends joked that Nataliya was trying to send me a message…

In addition to a small cast, this production featured a minimalist stage design with almost no props or furniture. Each scene featured two characters at a time, while the third stood silently and motionless in the background. The story also occurred in reverse chronological order. It was a very innovative approach.

Afterwards, Nataliya hoped to get an autograph from Hiddleston, but we were disappointed to learn the cast did not meet with fans after matinee performances. We had dinner at Max Brenner’s near Union Square Park. We shared an unremarkable chicken quesadilla, but the main attraction at Brenner’s is actually dessert! Brenner’s features dozens of chocolate desserts including hot chocolate, milkshakes, fondue, waffles, crepes, ice cream and pizzas. I love sweets and the variety was overwhelming! We finally settled on the Waffle Celebration with a trio of waffles including strawberries and cream, banana split and hazelnut. Unbeknownst to us, the Waffle Celebration is served with sparklers! The delight on both our faces is evident. The waffles were quite heavy and decadent, and the strawberry was my favorite because it was lighter than the others.

We stopped at the Forbidden Planet, a comic book store, and the iconic Strand Book Storewhich were both conveniently right down the street from Max Brenner’s. I found a couple back issues of a series I used to read at the Forbidden Planet, which was a delightful surprise. At the Strand, I picked up a “A Very Short Introduction to Cinema History” for myself and “How to Relax” by Thich Nhat Hanh as a very early Christmas gift for Nataliya. I kept it hidden in my coat pocket all weekend and managed to sneak it home unnoticed.

Before turning in, we had one last unexpected adventure. While walking back to Pod 51, we stumbled upon Greenacre Park, which unbeknownst to us, was located directly across the street from our hotel. As we approached, Nataliya and I heard running water that sounded like a waterfall. Curious, we followed the sound and were pleasantly surprised to find a quiet, verdant pocket amongst the towers of Midtown Manhattan. The park covers about 6,300 square feet and features a soothing 25-foot waterfall lit with lamps at night. The small refuge gave us a moment to escape from the city and be alone together (or nearly so). There are dozens of similar parks scattered throughout the city, so keep your eyes peeled! Afterwards, we crossed the street and finally crept into bed.

On Sunday morning, we went back to Le Pain Quotidien for breakfast. This time, we had fragrant apple cider with cinnamon and shakshuka with quinoa (which was an interesting variation). I also tried a bowl of Greek yogurt with speculoos, harissa, cranberries and apples. It was tasty but had too many competing flavors. I liked the speculoos which is a Belgian Christmas cookie with ginger and nutmeg.

Then, we strolled up 5^th Avenue towards Central Park. The wind was whipping down the road which made it very chilly. But when we arrived at the park, things warmed up and we had a very pleasant stroll. We sat down and snacked on a leftover pain au chocolate from breakfast. I enjoyed the small moments of respite we found, while it seemed like Nataliya enjoyed being on the move.

Then, we hoped back on the subway for a minute and then walked up to the USS Intrepid aircraft carrier which is housed on the Hudson River. While crossing through Hell’s Kitchen, we had our first, and luckily only, encounter with human excrement lying in the street. An unfortunate, but quintessential, New York experience. New York is fun to visit, but I wouldn’t want to live there. It’s too crowded and way too expensive!

We only had to wait in line for 20 or 30 minutes before we could enter the Intrepid, an Essex-class aircraft carrier constructed during World War II. The tickets were a little steep ($33 each) and we also added a guided tour for an extra $15 each. But I’d been itching to go since I first saw the Intrepid while visiting the city in 2016. I also look forward to comparing it to theUSS Yorktown when we visit Charleston in 2021.

Our tour provided a general overview of the history of the Intrepid and lasted about an hour. I would have preferred the other tour that focused on the ship’s role in the Pacific Theater of World War II, but it was almost 2 hours long. Nataliya wanted something shorter, and she thought the guide was very engaging and knowledgeable. My main complaint was that the tour tried to squeeze in too much information in a very short amount of time.

However, going on the guided tour meant we got to ride up to the flight deck on the exterior elevator which was pretty cool! We also went behind the cordon and stood next to planes that were on display, which was an unexpected bonus. We couldn’t figure out how to get up to the flight control tower which was a little disappointing. Instead, the elevator took us down again. We stopped at the small deli onboard and shared a tasty roast beef sandwich that was only somewhat overpriced ($15).

Several other attractions are included with the price of admission,including the USS Growler, a Cold War submarine, and a space exhibit. Other activities are available for an additional fee including 3-D films ($7), flight simulators ($10) and a Concorde jet exhibit ($7). Members get free admission to the Intrepid, discounts at the museum store and reduced prices on additional exhibits. We did not visit the Growler, but I’d like to the next time I visit the city. If we hadn’t been in a hurry, we might have stuck around longer.

But we jumped on the subway again and headed down to Chinatown. The main goal was to see a movie at the Metrograph – a combination retro movie theater and restaurant. I like classic movies and the Metrograph specializes in old 35mm pictures. I also found the retro décor appealing as well. The cinema also includes an eclectic candy selection and a small collection of books for sale. The book corner is misleadingly described as a “store” but really is not much more than a few shelves.

However, the film we wanted to see was sold out, and the other choices were unappealing. Instead, we wandered around Chinatown for a while which was very enlightening. I thought that Chinatown had begun to gentrify, but it still felt like entering a foreign country. Nataliya and I suddenly became the minority and all the street signs were in Chinese. There was even a statue of Confucius in a small park. We decided to stop for dinner but ran out of luck. Every restaurant we stopped at was cash only and we didn’t have enough money on hand to pay. Rather than wander around looking for an ATM, we went back to Pod 51. It was quite a surreal experience!

We eventually ate at Le Bateau Ivre (translation: the drunk boat) a French restaurant right next to our hotel. Nataliya is more budget-minded, but she let me indulge in a pricey dinner here with coq au vin for her (chicken stew – $29) and cotes d’agneau for me (lamb chops – $42). It was a slight letdown because my lamb chops were quite small and Nataliya was disappointed in her chicken.

The next morning, we got up early so the shuttle van could take us back to LaGuardia. Our flight back to CVG was smooth. Overall, it was a very successful and fun trip! Nataliya and I both learned a lot about each other. For instance, she prefers to jump in and take action instead of deliberating too much (which is my preference). I prefer to stop and savor the moment, while Nataliya likes to keep moving. Regardless, we learned to rely on each other and work together. The trip was also a good introduction to traveling together and helped prepare us for our weeklong trip to Las Vegas in December.

Part II – July 2016

I had previously spent about 36 hours in New York in 2016 which was also very fun but too brief. The American Museum of Natural History had an amazing collection of dinosaur bones. However, “Sleep No More” was the real highlight. This immersive play allows spectators to wander through the massive five-story converted warehouse that spans more than 100 rooms and 100,000 square feet. Tickets aren’t cheap ($140), but it’s worth it. About 25 actors move throughout the space, called the McKittrick Hotel, and perform a loose adaptation of Shakespeare’s Macbeth in a 1930s era setting. The story resets every hour for three hours and allows spectators to see different parts of the massive performance each time. The totally immersive setting enables spectators to rummage through drawers in search of clues since performers do not acknowledge or interact with spectators, except in special moments called “1:1.”

I was lucky enough to have one such experience. One of the performers, a man in suit, was standing in front of a mirror talking to himself. I stood behind him and watched. We made eye contact and the performer grabbed my hand as he dashed out of the room. We ran together down the halls towards the dramatic, horrific conclusion of the performance.

I’d love to go back again, and the Tenement Museum, which documents immigrant life in the city, is at the top of my list. Hopefully, we can also make it to the Metrograph on time.

In June 2019, Nataliya and I went on an “African safari” and came face to face with a rhino!

The best part – the safari park was only 3 hours from Cincinnati and tickets are only cost $30 per person. In reality, we visited The Wilds – a non-profit conservation center near Zanesville. I first heard about The Wilds a couple years ago and it has been on my “life list” (as opposed to a bucket list) ever since. The Wilds covers encompasses more than 9,000 acres of reclaimed coal mine land and houses several dozen different species of African and Asian wildlife, including giraffes, cheetahs, rhinos and zebras.

Nataliya and I booked a regular safari tour on an open-air converted bus. Our driver served as our guide as well and offered lots of insightful commentary. He was very friendly and knowledgeable.

Almost immediately, we came face to face with a rhino! Our driver said she had only ever come so close to his bus once before. We could have reached out and rubbed her leathery hide! Her lumbering approach certainly inspired a sense of fear and respect in her mighty presence. Later, a few Przewalski’s wild horses came alongside the bus, but they were not nearly as interesting as a rhino. Our driver warned us against petting the wild horses since they might try to munch anything that came within reach.

The Wilds also includes an area with several enclosures where predators, such as cheetahs and African Painted Dogs, are housed. The enclosures are quite spacious and give the animals a lot of room to roam. There is also a small bird house that visitors can enter and be swarmed by tiny, colorful birds. Otherwise, the animals tended to keep their distance so don’t expect to have close encounters the entire time!

However, a Wild Side safari is the best way to guarantee a tour filled with close encounters. We saw one Wild Side safari in action and, although they cost $125 per person, they are worth it! Instead of large converted buses, you ride in a converted pickup truck for Wild Side safaris. The driver took the Wild Side group off-road and stopped right next to a giraffe while our bus stuck to the road. The Wild Side safari guide gave one participant some sort of treat to feed the giraffe which gobbled it up, licking the benefactor in the process with its big purple tongue! Participants get to pick where they go and what they do on a Wild Side tour. During the winter, Wild Side tours are available for a buy one get one free discount.

There are a variety of other specialty tours, including zipline, horseback and fishing tours.The ziplines connect a series of observation platforms that tower above the pastures. Prices vary from $54-$84 depending on what type of zipline tour you pick. The fishing safari is 4 hours long and costs from $75-$100. Horseback safaris are $30 and last an hour. However, a guide at The Wilds told me the horseback safaris are more about riding than seeing the park.

The weather was very pleasant in June, but the buses are almost totally exposed to the elements. There is a roof, but if it’s cold or wet you need to dress appropriately! The park is very remote and cellphone service is very poor. You need to book a tour ahead of time – at least several weeks ahead during the peak summer season. Despite using GPS, we still got a little lost on the backroads.

We stayed on the east side of Columbus the night before and drove over in the morning. It took about 75 minutes, so it might be a good idea to stay in Zanesville. You could also drive up and back on the same day, but that’s at least 6 hours on the road!If you want a true safari experience, you can stay overnight at The Wilds in their cabins; however, they are obscenely expensive – more than $300 a night in the off season with a membership discount! Members also get a discount on specialty tours and free open-air tours.

Nataliya and I opted to make it a weekend trip by staying in Columbus. The day before visiting The Wilds, we stopped at the Columbus Museum of Art. The museum is a little small compared to the Cincinnati or Cleveland art museums, especially considering the $18 ticket price. The museum is housed in a beautiful Second Renaissance Revival building constructed in 1931. However, the back of the building is a rather ugly modern façade. I’m usually not a fan of modern art, but the “driftwood” horse was actually very interesting. Upon closer inspection, a docent showed us the horse is made from bronze. Even when he showed us some of the welding seams, it was hard to believe it wasn’t really wood!

After spending the day at The Wilds, we went back to Columbus for dinner and a show at Shadowbox Live. Shadowbox is the largest resident ensemble theater company in country and produces an array of rock musicals and sketch comedy performances, with lots of sexual innuendo and crude humor.Shadowbox operates with a very interesting model where performers are also the waitstaff. We shared a table with another couple, and it took a while for them to get their food. However, I had a steak salad and it was very tasty.

Overall, it was a great weekend, and we look forward to returning – especially for a Wild Side safari!

My two trips to Hocking Hills, in October 2018 and again in July 2019, show how you can have a different experience in the same place. Both were fun although I think the second trip with Nataliya was probably better.

Part I – October 2018

The first time I went with my parents. We took I-71 up to Washington Court House and then got on US 35 to US 23. I strongly suggest just taking I-71 all the way to Columbus and then taking I-270 to US 33, like Nataliya and I did later on. It’s just as fast and a lot more comfortable. I almost got car sick (which hasn’t happened for years) when dad insisted on driving the hilly, twisting back roads!

In 2018, my parents and I stayed at the Holiday Inn Express in the nearby town of Logan. There aren’t a lot of hotels nearby although there are quite a few cabins for rent.

The hotel was fine and there were several restaurants nearby. We had dinner at Millstone Southern Smoked BBQ which was very crowded and loud due to an OSU football game.

The meal was good and afterwards dad and I sampled a few beers at Brewery 33, which was also within walking distance. Brewery 33 is very small but had a good selection of basic beers. This was back when I could still drink – alas! In fact, I don’t really miss it much although there are days when I really need a beer after work!

The next day, we hiked 3 trails in Hocking Hills State Park. Old Man’s Cave is the most popular spot and was our first stop. There is a large parking lot, but it quickly fills up. The visitors center was then under construction but would open only a few weeks before my return trip in 2019.

Old Man’s Cave is named for a recess inhabited by an early settler of the region in 1790s. The trail is only about a half mile long but is usually very crowded. Along the way, you’ll encounter the Devil’s Bathtub – an interesting whirlpool that supposedly swirls down to Hades (the underworld).

The trail descends from the parking lot into the canyon and the Upper Falls. At the bottom, the trail is cooler and easy to walk until you reach the lower falls. Hiking beyond the Lower Falls can be moderately strenuous. I elected to continue and see the Lower Falls while my parents opted to take a break. From the Lower Falls, the trail becomes part of the 6-mile Grandma Gatewood Trail, which connects several other trailheads in the park.

Instead of continuing along the loop, we got back in our car and stopped at Cedar Falls next. The parking lot is much smaller than at Old Man’s Cave and has a small bathroom and shelter. Cedar Falls is a magnificent 50-foot waterfall but is a misnomer because the early settlers of the region mistook the hemlock trees for cedars.

The trail is only half a mile but descends steeply down to the falls. A mathematician designed the steps to make them as comfortable as possible, although climbing back up is strenuous. The trail was also popular as well including a swarm of approximately 50 shirtless teenagers who went jogging by – apparently some sort of high school sports team in training.

Ash Cave was our final stop on the first trip. There are several small parking lots nearby with restrooms. The path to the cave is paved and only about a quarter mile long, although a half-mile trail loop also ascends along the upper edge of the cave. Ash Cave is named for the large piles of ash found in the cave by early settlers, which probably accumulated from fires lit by Native Americans over the centuries.

Ash Cave is the largest recess cave in the state which is readily apparent as you approach. The massive cave is shaped like a horseshoe and stretches 700 feet from end to end. It rises 90 feet tall and is 100 feet deep. A large mound, called the Pulpit Rock, sits in the middle and provides a good view of this unique geological feature. Ash Cave was also busy, and a large group of people had set up folding chairs. Several people were playing drums and other musical instruments which rippled through the air due to the cave’s acoustics.

Part II – July 2019

Even though Hocking Hills is a relatively small park, I still had a fun time the second time around less than a year later. Nataliya and I took a different approach in several respects. First, we stayed at the Holiday Inn Express in Athens. It was a bit cheaper than Logan but also a 45-minute drive to the park. However, Athens (pop. 25,000) also offered amenities than Logan (pop. 7,000).

Athens is home to Jackie O’s Brewery, which produces one of my favorite beers – Razz Wheat (American raspberry wheat ale). In addition, Nataliya and I tried a flight of bourbon barrel beers which is one of my favorite styles. I was also extremely fortunate to have a brief window where the side effects of my medication were mild, and I could have a few sips (literally). I had a delicious salad with chicken and apples. The Rueben egg rolls were also amazing too.

After dinner, we wandered around the campus of Ohio University for a little while, which was very beautiful and quiet at night. Since it was summer, the campus was nearly deserted.Then, we went around the corner to see a movie at the Athena Cinema, a small historic theater. We decided to see “The Art of Self-Defense” which was a little ham-handed.

The next morning, we started our hike at Old Man’s Cave again. The new visitor’s center (a fire destroyed the previous building in 2016) had opened only a few weeks before and included some interesting displays on the history and ecology of the Hocking Hills region. It also features a gift shop which sells ice cream – a tasty treat after a hot hike.

Even though we partly recovered my tracks from 2018, Old Man’s Cave is still a lot of fun and Nataliya loved it since this was her first trip. This time, we continued along the trail after reaching the Lower Falls and headed along the Grandma Gatewood Loop towards Whispering Cave. This recess cave is about 300 long and sometimes has a waterfall in the center (which was not flowing when we visited). A few parts of the trail were moderately strenuous. We reconnected to the Grandma Gatewood loop and hiked back to Cedar Falls. The main attractions were very busy, but the Grandma Gatewood Trail had less traffic, although it was not totally empty.

Rose Lake was our last stop before returning to Old Man’s Cave. There is a sharp climb up to the reservoir, but it is not very long. Fishing is allowed at Rose Lake with a valid permit, but swimming is not. The lake was very quiet and pretty which makes it a great spot for a short rest. By the time we returned, we probably spent about 4 hours hiking and covered about 7 miles. My legs were tired – this was my longest trek in years!

Nataliya and I plan to go back again since there are still several destinations to visit, including Cantwell Cliffs, the Rock House and Conkle’s Hollow. In addition, there are numerous other parks and forests nearby, including Wayne National Forest. The Sherman House in Lancaster is about 30 minutes from Hocking Hills. It is the birthplace of Civil War general William Tecumseh Sherman and is another place I’d like to visit as well.

Here is the epilogue to our Pathfinder story arc (level 1-7) that lasted a year:

By defeating Iramine, the party has become more powerful and everyone has reached level 7.

But the first thing you need to do is rest since the difficult battle has worn you down. By this point, enough time has elapsed that the first ring of the city is mostly flooded with molten gold. The only option is to wait out the flood. The highest point in the city is the Tabernacle of the Jewel of Everlasting Gold, so the party climbs onto the tabernacle’s domed roof and waits as the tide of molten gold rises ever higher and higher before cresting only a few feet below the top of the dome. You have to use your last potions of resist energy to fend off the punishing heat. The flood begins to recede a couple hours later and slowly drains from the entire city over the course of another 24 hours.

Then the party begins to fight their way back out of the City of Golden Death, encountering wandering Golden Skeleton patrols and a few more Golden Skeletal Ogres. Moving swiftly, the party fails to notice another pair of constructs – a pair of Golden Caryatid Columns. These gold-plated statues of female warriors holding falchions suddenly come to life.

https://www.d20pfsrd.com/bestiary/monster-listings/constructs/caryatid-column/

One swings at Nog but misses. Nog retaliates with his great sword and upon striking the statute feels a deep, penetrating vibration that ripples down the blade into the pommel and then telegraphs into his arms. Nog glances quizzically at Quinn, the investigator, while raising his sword to strike again.

“Hold your blade!” Quinn shouts. He points at the living column and says “their defenses will shatter your sword if you strike again! We must withdraw.”

Izlea raises her wand to blast the living columns while the party retreats but Quinn tells her they are also immune to magic.

After beating another hasty retreat, the party eventually reaches the exit and begins the dangerous trek back to the beach. The sun hangs low in the sky, but the party decides to press on and reach the rendezvous point before midnight. The terror treant that lobbed boulders at the party during your approach to the City of Golden Death has thankfully moved on. But many other threats inhabit the twisted forests of the Isle of Terror.

https://www.d20pfsrd.com/bestiary/monster-listings/plants/treant/

In addition, black lighting rains down from the sky periodically and one bolt crashes into Izlea doing 20 points of damage! She collapses to the ground and groans. Her body is wracked with pain and she convulses for a few moments as black energy ripples up and down her body in waves. After the black energy dissipates, Quinn helps Izlea to her feet and then gives her one of the few remaining healing potions to partially restore her.

The sun dips below the horizon as the party trudges westward.

Eventually, the party approaches the abandoned keep that overlooked the beach where they need to build a signal fire and recall the old pirate Mabon the Destroyer so he could take them back to Venture-Captain Reginar at the Pathfinder base in Tamram. Dusan, the crazed Pathfinder that has accompanied you across the island, asks to be taken back to Tamran so that he could make his report to Venture-Captain Tree Roots. The party readily agrees and sets to work building a signal fire.

Just as Nog is about to light the fire, stones from the nearby keep suddenly leap into the air and batter the party members. Everyone tries to defend themselves against the barrage of bullets by ducking, dodging and parrying with their weapons.

Dusan shouts “I warned you!” and hastily “refreshes” his “olfactory camouflage”.

Quinn dodges a hurtling stone and then looks quizzically at Dusan.

“…shadow…demons…” Dusan hisses quietly as he peers furtively into the dark forest.

https://www.d20pfsrd.com/bestiary/monster-listings/outsiders/demon/demon-shadow/

The barrage of stones continues for a few more moments, with a dozen rocks seemingly aimed at the party in the span of only a few seconds. 

The fusillade ends as abruptly as it began.

A moment later, a shadowy bat-winged demon flies out of the darkness and pounces on Hank. Its lashes out, and its teeth and claws seem to pass effortlessly through Hanks’ heavy armor. The demon’s icy touch leaves large, painful black scars on Hank’s chest and limbs.

“You need a cold iron weapon to fight shadow demons,” Dusan shouts!

Hank drops his great sword and draws his cold iron mace. He swings at the dark figure hovering in front of him, and it seems to recoil. Nog charges in to attack but his greatsword seems to have little effect on the malevolent monster. Quinn studies his target but finds no weak spots. Martha’s crossbow likewise seems to be ineffective.

Izela sends a few shimmering magic missiles towards the creature. The impact causes the shadowy apparition to flicker.

The shadow demon rakes Hank from head to toe with its claws and teeth. Hank groans and slumps to the ground, unconscious. The shadow flutters a little higher into the sky.

The party struggles to do any damage to the demon, except for Izlea’s magic missiles which again strike true.

Quinn also feels the demon’s chilled touch before it seemingly disappears into the darkness.

Quinn uses the party’s last healing potion to bring Hank back to consciousness. Nog finally lights the signal fire and everyone huddles close with their backs to the flames and their eyes peering into the inky darkness until Mabon’s ship arrives. It seems the shadow demon has left the party in peace. 

The party quickly embarks on the rowboat and hastily paddles for the pirate ship. They clamber abroad and urge Mabon to make for Tamran with all haste. They awe the crew of the ship with a dramatic retelling of their adventures on the Isle of Terror.

After passing through the shroud of black storms that surround the island, Martha suddenly remembers that Hank has an intriguing deck of cards in his bag of holding.

https://www.d20pfsrd.com/magic-items/artifacts/minor-artifacts/deck-of-many-things/

The cards are from the Every Day Tarot deck: https://www.everydaytarot.com/

Hank reaches into the bag of holding and takes out the deck. Hank resists his chaotic nature and declines to participate. He presents the deck to Nog.

Nog draws one card – the Fates (represented by 3 of Cups)! He is suddenly restored to the throne of Ashu as its rightful ruler!

Izlea draws two cards. The first is the Star, which makes her even more beautiful and powerful than she was before (+2 charisma)!

Her second card is the Vizier (represented by the Hermit)! She is able to solve any problem or question (once) by consulting a supernatural source of wisdom.

Quinn draws one card, with a sense of dread. It is Ruin (represented by the Tower)! All his non-magical possessions suddenly crumble to dust!

With a confident smirk, Martha declares she will draw 4 cards. The first is the Gem (represented by 7 of Cups)! A stream of glittering jewels erupts from the ocean on the port side of the ship and dozens shower down upon her! Izlea appraises them with a quick glance and estimates there must be about 50 different stones, including rubies, sapphires, topaz, and diamonds, which are worth a total of 50,000 gold pieces!!!

Her eyes wide with greed, Martha draws her second card – Comet (represented by 2 of Swords)! Martha knows intuitively that the next time she encounters an enemy of any kind, she must defeat it single-handedly. If victorious, Martha will immediately gain one level – otherwise, the benefit is lost. She feels giddy about not only being richer than her companions but also more powerful…

Grinning from ear to ear, Martha draws her third card – Donjon (Represented by 4 of Swords)! Immediately, a woman with dark brown hair, light brown skin and brown eyes clad in leather armor with several gold earrings and a blue headscarf appears on deck a few feet away from the party. The woman shouts “I, Pasha Al-Jakari, shall now take my revenge against you meddling Pathfinders who ransacked by outpost on Stonespire Island and stole my mirror!” The party rushes towards the woman as she points at Martha and exclaims “You, the most troublesome of the lot, shall be my slave!”

A brief look of horror spreads over Martha’s face before both she and the Pasha disappear in a flash of light! The pirate crew murmur amongst themselves at this strange turn of events.

Izlea smiles smugly and says “My Vizier card will come in handy when it comes to rescuing Martha from the clutches of the treacherous Pasha. We may even be able to rescue the djinni once we defeat the Pasha.”

After the excitement dies down, Nog takes the opportunity to throw the Everlasting Jewel into the ocean. While Nog watches it sink beneath the waves, Hank walks up behind him and says “You know, there are fish people down there too.”

Nog suddenly regrets his decision and feels a wave a dread wash over him. Hopefully, any fish folk who find the Everlasting Jewel will not fall under its control.

Nevertheless, the Everlasting Jewel left its mark on Nog, even though he held it for only a few moments in the City of Golden Death. For the rest of his life, Nog still feels the Jewel’s dark, seductive call in the back of his mind. Nog should have been satisfied after being restored as the rightful ruler of Ashu, but the riches of the Golden City are not easily forgotten…

Upon arriving in Tamran, the party quickly locates Venture-Captain Reginar. After hearing your report, he says “Your adventure will be recorded in the Chronicles of the Pathfinder Society as one of its greatest moments!”

However, he also seems concerned about the fate of the Everlasting Jewel and says he will dispatch another team to recover it.

Reginar is also astounded to meet Dusan. He consults the Chronicles and discovers that Dusan was part of another Pathfinder team that had gone to the island more than 7 years ago. Since Venture-Captain Tree Roots was reassigned several years ago, Reginar also records Dusan’s “version” of events as well.

After all the paperwork is complete, Reginar asks to see the amulet which functioned as the key to the Golden City. “I feel this must be returned to its rightful owner – Kassen.” He asks the party to accompany him back to Kassen’s tomb.

Everyone readily agrees and the uneventful river cruise takes only a few days. The party is welcomed back as heroes in the village of Kassen. After several festive hours, you managed to extract yourselves from the unending banquet arranged in your honor.  You approach the tomb after a short ride on horseback.

A few bats and other minor vermin harass the party as you descend into the tomb. However, you brush them aside easily. Only a year ago, these tunnels had seemed frightening but now they are only dark and cold.

As you approach Kassen’s tomb, his translucent spirit rises to greet you.

“Welcome, noble heroes! It seems like you were here only a moment ago, but time slips by so quickly down here. However, I sense you have fought many battles since we last met. I am glad you have survived to return. Did you recover the amulet?”

“Yes,” says Izlea as she steps forward and presents the amulet to Kassen’s ghost.

Kassen says you must break the amulet into pieces and place one fragment in his tomb and the other in Asar’s crypt.

Nog sunders the amulet with one swift blow of his great sword and reverently places the fragments in their rightful resting places.

“Thank you,” says Kassen’s spirit. “Go with my blessing. I shall rest now.”

With that the spirit dissolves into nothing and the party departs the tomb. (All members gain the boon of Kassen’s Blessing which allows you to reroll any die).

Many adventures lie ahead of you, including the daring rescue of your companion Martha, but the stories have not yet been recorded in Chronicles of the Pathfinder Society…

 

My mother said her attitude towards my cancer is to look ahead rather than behind. I generally share that same approach, but I recently spent some time reflecting on the 2 years that have passed since I was diagnosed with stage 4 lung cancer on Dec. 28, 2016.

Overall, my treatment has gone well – the brain tumors were quickly irradiated and show no signs of recurring. The tumor in my lungs has been reduced from about 3 in. by 3 in. to 1 in. by 1 in. There have been a few hiccups along the way, but overall my treatment has been pretty painless and with few side effects. That makes me very lucky, but my cancer is rare and presents its own unusual challenges. My friend Michael described it like “having this man-eating wolf in my house, and I’ve got him locked in the other room, for now. Even though he’s definitely trying to tear through the door to get to me, the door’s holding for now.”

Normal chemotherapy treatment plans usually last between 4 and 6 months. But, after two years, I still take medication every morning that attacks my specific type of cancer, and there’s still no end in sight. After 2 years, I am still very much “in treatment” which most people seem to forget, especially since I don’t post about my condition unless there’s some specific reason. I still go for a CT scan every 3 months and an MRI every 4 months. Because I’m on a drug that was only recently approved by the FDA, I still go in for blood work and an exam every month or sometimes more frequently as well. My latest CT scans showed a slight reduction in the lung tumor, and the latest MRI showed no new brain lesions.

In fact, shortly after Thanksgiving, I joked with my doctor that I was a frequent flyer because I had 4 appointments in the span of 2 weeks. The only perk is free parking – unfortunately, the hospital doesn’t have a reward point program or loyalty card. I go to a young adult cancer support group, and I certainly felt, on occasion, a little jealous of other survivors there who were on biannual or annual checkups. The constant rhythm of appointments, scans and blood draws is numbing and runs the risk of making me feel too complacent. Although the MRI screeches loudly and constantly, I am so inured to it that I find it hypnotic and doze off inside. I really don’t have much to complain about if my biggest gripe is that I have too many doctor’s appointments.

On the other hand, I wonder if sometimes I’m not forgetting the gravity of my condition. I am extremely lucky because I live a relatively normal life, aside from non-voluntary sobriety. In addition, my treatment has been effective, albeit with a few bumps along the way. I am afraid that sometimes I might forget the precariousness and lethality of my position. After 2 years, despite all the good news, my dad said he still gets anxious before each scan. I usually don’t get too anxious, although I was a little concerned about what the first CT scan would show after starting the most recent version of my medication. However, generally I feel like there’s no point in worrying because it won’t have any effect on the results. My therapist called that “radical acceptance,” and I won a CrossFit award for being “Cool under Fire.” I feel like it’s those two latter options rather than naivety or complacence.

Conversely, it’s hard to forgot that I have a deadly disease, since I take my medication every morning. In addition, the medical appointments sometimes crowd my calendar (I’m lucky to have an employer who is very flexible). Furthermore, I always try to make the most of every day, since awareness of my own mortality is never absent for very long. It seems I don’t need an app to remind of that. I hadn’t ever thought of this habit as mindfulness, but I suppose it is.

In the future, things could become easier or more difficult. Either way, there’s no point in worrying about it now. Instead, I’ll get on with living and trying to strike a balance between being mindful of my own mortality without becoming numb to the risk.

I recently spent five days in Washington D.C. partly for business but also for fun. One of the things that struck me about D.C. was its comprehensive and efficient public transportation system. The company didn’t want to pay for a car in D.C., so I was placed in a different situation from my daily life in Cincinnati where I can drive everywhere. I know there’s public transportation in Cincinnati (including buses, bikes and the street car), but I never need to use it. If I did, I suspect it would be less convenient than the system in D.C. I don’t have a lot to compare it to, but I think D.C. public transit is pretty good. Paris also had a good public transportation system, but we were just less reliant on it.

First, I love the D.C. metro. It’s fast, efficient and pretty cheap ($2 for a basic fare). It was a little confusing on my first day since I don’t normally ride public transit, but it didn’t take too long to figure out. After visiting Paris with my family earlier this year, I quickly felt like a savvy independent traveler on the metro. The metro staff were all very helpful. One of my fondest mementos from my D.C. trip will be the crumpled and torn metro pocket map which I consulted multiple times every day. The trains ran every 10 minutes and the cars and stations were pretty clean, if dimly lit. Sitting in the rear car was pretty cool, because it felt like you were in some sort of sci-fi hyperspace tunnel with the lights flashing by and trailing off behind you. My only gripe about the metro is the lack of a stop at the western edge of the National Mall which discouraged me from visiting the Lincoln and Jefferson memorials. However, I did visit the White House, Washington Monument, Supreme Court and the Capitol. I thought the Washington Monument was the most serene and striking at night, although I ended up with a great picture of the Capitol as well.

The metro also provided excellent opportunities for people watching and observing the masses going about their daily lives. The metro is a social environment in which I have never really spent a lot of time, but in D.C. I was immersed in it every day for five days straight. I drive to and from work every day in Cincinnati, which is a very isolated activity. There are thousands of other people on the road as well, but you can’t really see them or interact with them. Usually I took a taxi to my work meetings in D.C., but afterwards I took the metro back into D.C. After a meeting at the Defense Intelligence Agency, I entered the nearest metro station (on the Green line on the south side of the Anacostia River) in Anacostia, a mostly African-American neighborhood, and suddenly found myself in the minority. Of the people milling around or waiting for the metro, only one other person was white. I felt out of element in a way that I rarely have felt before, and I admit it made me a little uncomfortable. However, it gave me an appreciation, if only briefly, for how non-white people might feel in the opposite situation. But only one stop later, and I was back in the Navy Yard – a vibrant and more diverse neighborhood.

I did a few other things in D.C. (such visit museums and eat amazing food) besides ride the metro, but we can discuss that later! While I mostly rode the metro in D.C., I used the bus when leaving because there wasn’t a direct metro line to the Dulles airport, although there is one for Reagan. Upon arrival, I took an express bus from Dulles to L’enfant Plaza – a major public transit hub in D.C. When I left, I took the metro until I got as close to Dulles as I could, and then I finished the last few miles on a local bus route (again only $2). The bus also stops at the Udvar-Hazy Air and Space Museum near the airport which I also utilized since I had a few hours before my flight left for Cincinnati.

D.C. also has a bike share program that I used only on my last day. I didn’t really think about bicycles before I arrived in D.C. and probably could have used it more during my trip instead of walking as much as I did after getting off the metro. The bike share program costs $2 for a 30-minute ride – plus, the docking stations are solar powered! However, the first station I tried to use seemed to be out of service – I couldn’t rent or return any of the bikes in the rack. However, there was another station nearby, and I was quickly able to get on my way. The rental process is quick and easy.

Although not public transit, I rounded out my stay in D.C. with a cruise down the Potomac River. I’ve had the idea for a dinner river cruise since my family went to Paris – we planned to float down the Seine but couldn’t fit it in our itinerary. I signed up for the Spirit of D.C. dinner cruise. I was a little hesitant because of the price (about $100), plus the company adds on about $30 in fees when you try to buy a ticket. None of that includes the gratuity for the crew either. However, there’s a discount code on their website that takes 15% off, which made it a little more palatable. In the end, I went for it because it was my only significant out-of-pocket expense on the whole trip.

I was hoping for more of a night-time narrated sight-seeing tour, but it ended up being a booze cruise with loud music and white people flailing about on the dance floor. The food was good but not great – I liked the smoked duck appetizer with cherries and cranberries. For the main course, I had the beef short ribs which was fine but not outstanding. The mashed potatoes definitely seemed like some sort of watery instant-serve product. Since I can no longer drink, I’ve become a desert aficionado and the warm butter cake with ice cream was pretty good! The cruise didn’t offer much in terms of good night-time views except for the Kennedy Center. In addition, the boarding area was a little hard to find and I spent a while walking up and down the Wharf trying to find the right spot.

In addition to transportation marvels of D.C., I also enjoyed the monuments and museums. I usually finished with work at about 2 p.m. each day, so I could hop on the metro and get to a museum in 30 or 45 minutes. I visited the International Spy Museum. At $25, it offered a good historical overview of espionage but didn’t have much new information (at least for me). However, I did enjoy the different hands-on exhibits where you could take a stab at being a spy yourself. I also really loved the collection of WWII counter-espionage posters, because that style just really appeals to me for some reason.

As a former journalist, I felt obligated to visit the Newseum even if it cost $25 and the Smithsonians are all free. The design of the museum was a little disconcerting since a large part of the interior is open-air and heights make me anxious. That meant I didn’t go up to the top floors, but there were still several interesting exhibits. For example, I thought the Berlin Wall exhibit was good, and I enjoyed the Pulitzer Prize photo collection.

I also visited the Smithsonian National Museum of the American Indian. I wasn’t able to visit the café unfortunately, because it was closed by the time I arrived. However, I did have a couple hours to tour the museum, which was one of my favorites. I just love Native American history, and the museum had an excellent collection of artifacts. In addition, there is an excellent exhibit about the Incan empire that focuses on the roads the empire built. The gift shop also offered a number of excellent Christmas gifts.

I visited my last museum in D.C. only a couple hours before my flight left, and it was one of my favorites. The main Smithsonian Air and Space Museum is located in D.C. but the Udvar-Hazy museum at Dulles airport came highly recommended, so I picked that one instead and I have no regrets! I vaguely remember visiting the main museum as a youngster on family vacation. However, Udvar-Hazy has an amazing collection and it’s easy to view the whole collection in just a couple hours. I didn’t see every plane, but I walked through almost the entire collection in about two hours. The entire collection is housed in one huge hanger with an elevated walkway around the perimeter. Plus, it’s accessible from Dulles via a quick bus transfer, and I could roll my luggage around the entire place without being hassled.

The museums houses an excellent collection – especially of rare experimental German planes from WWII. I have several scale models of these planes at home and it was an amazing experience to be only a few feet away from the real thing! But wait, there’s even more! The museum also includes a restoration wing where visitors can watch experts complete repairs and conservation work. The museum also houses an excellent collection of pre-WWI aircraft, which are only 30 years older than the German jets of WWII but look more like paper toys. The museum also includes a space exploration exhibit that includes the shuttle Discovery, which is also very impressive. It looks like I went to museum at the right time, because in a few short weeks the museum will close to begin a 7-year renovation project. The only disappoint was the gift shop, which didn’t offer any postcards of some of the iconic planes on display. I’ve been building a postcard collection from all my various trips and excursions, and I had hoped to add to my display!

My coworker Chelsie suggested I also check out Du Pont Circle, and since I love to read I stopped in at Kramer’s Books where I purchased “How to Love” by Thich Nhat Hanh, a Buddhist monk. I had first become interested in Hanh’s books a few years ago, and it was felicitous coincidence I couldn’t resist!

Now finally, a quick round-up of my favorite spots to eat in D.C. Nando’s Peri-Peri came highly recommended and didn’t disappoint. I had an order of wings which were tender and moist, unlike most other wings I’ve ever had. I also had the Portuguese rice with turmeric and the mint peas on the side. The mint peas really stole the show – they were delicious and tasted more like they belonged in an Indian buffet. You can also order the Peri-Peri sauce on Amazon, which I’ll do shortly. I also had the nata custard tarts and pineapple carrot cake, which were both tasty.

Old Ebbitt Grill also came highly recommended and the crab cakes didn’t disappoint. As a recently self-declared desert connoisseur, the chocolate chip bread pudding was a little disappointing. I’ve had some really great bread pudding before and it was a little underwhelming. It was also an enormous amount of bread pudding. The music was exceptionally loud and the whole restaurant was crowded cheek to cheek on a Tuesday, but the staff were very helpful and efficient.

Last but not least, Le Diplomate where two out of the three dishes were amazing. I let the waiter guide my choices (except for dessert). I normally don’t pick cheese as an appetizer, but I decided to try something new and was not disappointed. The three cheeses were all very tasty and were accompanied by fruit, nuts and honey that were all excellent accents. The main course was not as amazing as everything else, but it wasn’t bad either. The waiter suggested the skate Grenobloise, and I assented in the spirit of experimentation. I’m not really a fish connoisseur and it was a fine meal – just not as amazing as everything else. My only real complaint was the loud music and the fact my humble attire meant I was relegated to the heated patio and not the main dining area with more ambience.

The finale was dessert (seeing a trend so far?) and the profiteroles came so highly recommended it was the main reason I went to Le Diplomate. Profiteroles are made from puff pastry buns with ice cream and bananas in the middle. The top layer also includes thin strip of chocolate. Over all of this, a cup of molten chocolate sauce is poured that forms a lake on the plate. It’s obscene – that’s the only way I could describe it.

Le fin.

For the last year or so, my status had been pretty stable and positive. The drugs were working to keep the cancer at bay. Recently, the cancer began to grow again and my doctor switched me to the fourth generation medication. It’s supposed to be effective and the side effects have been modest so far.

However, the transition to a new medication was a wake-up call that I had become complacent again. Because I took my medication twice a day I could never forget I have cancer, but consistent waves of good news had made me forget how tenuous my position really is. In addition, a former coach at my gym died unexpectedly at the age of 26. Combined, these two events made me remember that I’m living on borrowed time. Really, I should have been dead at this point – the life expectancy of stage 4 lung cancer patients is not great.

For practical reasons (such as rent and health insurance), I can’t quit my job and travel the world. However, I can make it a priority to do the things I love that are within reach. I’ve already been doing a lot of that, such as volunteering and participating in the Alliance Francaise. But this just added a new urgency to it all.

I love teaching and for the past several years I’ve been teaching an online world history class. Someone else designed the course, so it doesn’t suit my teaching philosophy. Again, I got complacent and let the same lectures and assignments rollover each year. I made a few minor changes two years ago, but the course really needed to be completely redone. So, I’m finally going to make the class mine and teach it the way I think it should be taught. Hopefully, I’ll make it a better class as well.

Revamping the course rekindled my passion for teaching. I couldn’t stop thinking about the syllabus and jumped out of bed in the middle of the night (during my drug-induced insomnia) to jot down ideas. I expanded my syllabus while eating breakfast. I took joy in ordering books, taking notes and writing lectures. I think I’ve missed that academic stimulation since I quit working as an adjunct full-time.

I also started to come to terms with the fact I wasn’t a teacher full-time. I have a job that pays well, offers good benefits and lets me work with nice people. At the same, I get to teach the topics I want to teach and do it the way I want to do it, instead of teaching to the test and disciplining students.

Roleplaying games are my other recently renewed passion. I played a few different varieties before and after graduate school, but I haven’t played for at least two years. I decided to pick it up again after seeing some kids play at church. I found some acquaintances at church who wanted to play, but none were willing to organize a group or serve as the dungeon master (arbiter of rules and storyteller). I’m most familiar with Pathfinder (a variant of Dungeons and Dragons 3^rd edition) and stepped up to lead even though I just wanted to be a player.

And I fell in love! I had been a (rather mediocre) game master before, because I tended to railroad the players into a specific storyline and was unwilling to improvise. Now, I’ve tried to be a little more flexible. Plus, I’ve really thrown myself into creating immersion. I found a great site that produces mood-setting ambient music and a great variety of faux-parchment printer paper that I use to create clues and maps. I’ve also found a few other trinkets to surprise and delight my players.

Usually, I’m a pretty even-keeled kind of guy, and I have been described (most infamously) as inscrutable. But during game nights I get into character when I take on the role of a frightened villager or surly guardsman. I’m still not great at improvising dialogue, but I try to have fun with it. One player described me as a “natural GM” which I never would have imagined a few weeks ago. I have fun because my players are enjoying the game.

Although the transition to a new medication was a little scary, it helped me reclaim what I really love to do.