Nataliya’s parents still live in a village on the outskirts of Kharkiv and did not celebrate in the usual manner this year since there are still sporadic missile or artillery attacks. The temperature has dropped to the low single-digits in degree Fahrenheit, and the electric power grid has been pummeled by Russian attacks. Although power is being rationed with frequent brownouts, the Nataliya can still communicate regularly with her parents. Nataliya’s parents still plan to stay since they have a larder of preserved food from their small garden, gas furnace, and a wood-burning stove for supplemental warmth. However, they have been using the gas heat sparingly in order to save money since fuel prices remain high.
After 10 months of war, the Ukrainian spirit remains resolute (both at home and abroad), and millions of Ukrainians on the front lines or around the world maintained their holiday traditions as best they can.
During the last three years, I’ve learned a little about the Ukrainian holiday traditions which Nataliya maintained in her home. Historically, the Ukrainians follow the Julian/Orthodox calendar which is two weeks behind the Gregorian/Western system. Recently, the Orthodox Church of Ukraine (which is independent from Moscow) gave permission to each congregation to decide whether to celebrate Christmas on December 25 or January 7. Since the Russian Orthodox Church is closely allied with Putin, many Ukrainians have opted to celebrate on December 25 since that aligns with Western Europe and the United States.
Nataliya hails from Kharkiv which is only 30 miles from the Russian border, so the region has a long history of Russian cultural influence. Although they have always spoken Russian at home, Nataliya says she wants her son Alex to learn Ukrainian to avoid incurring any suspicion when they visit in the future. Any sort of Russian influence has become toxic since the wars started.
Since arriving in the United States nearly 20 years ago, Nataliya primarily celebrates Christmas in her home on December 25 and New Years on January 1st, according to the Gregorian/Western calendar. We might have a special dinner or a few small treats for the Julian/Orthodox holidays two weeks later, but it is not the primary holiday. However, Nataliya has mixed feelings about the Ukrainian homeland shifting away from the traditional celebration towards the Western preference.
“Christmas on December 25th is all about gifts,” Nataliya said. “It doesn’t hold the same meaning.”
Although she is not very religious, Nataliya said she still wants to have the option to celebrate the traditional January 7th holiday if she chooses to do so (as she did while growing up in Ukraine).
In addition, Slavic traditions feature Ded Moroz (Grandfather Frost) – a mythical winter wizard who is frequently compared to Santa Claus or St. Nicholas. While Santa Claus has his elves and reindeer, Ded Moroz is assisted by his granddaughter Snegurochka (Snow Maiden) and horses pull his sleigh. But in 1928, the Soviets outlawed Ded Moroz for being too closely associated with the church, bourgeois, and other enemies of the revolution. The exile only lasted seven years, and Ded Moroz was rehabilitated in 1935 by none other than Joseph Stalin. Even though the Soviets banned religious services, Stalin needed to bolster his support in the wake of the disastrous famine of 1930-33. In recent decades, Ded Moroz has faced stiff competition from Santa Claus as Western influence has increased in the former USSR since the fall of Communism in 1989. A large Ded Moroz doll dressed in silver resides near the Christmas tree each year.
When it came to actual celebrations, Ukrainians also sing Christmas carols, called Koliadka. Nataliya recalls that youngsters would sing songs for their neighbors who gave them candy, fruit, or a few small coins (the rarest and most desirable reward). She says the tradition also shares some similarities with Halloween in that respect.
Faithful members of the Orthodox church fasted for 40 days before Christmas and ate little besides fish and vegetables. The first meal to break the fast on Christmas Eve started when the first star was visible and began with a traditional grain and berry pudding called kutya, which included sweet syrup, honey, nuts, dried fruit and either rice, wheat, or barley depending on regional traditions. A feast of sausages and other dishes followed the kutya.
Kharkiv Christmas morning Orthodox mass, from Repost Telegram group (Vasylii Golosnyi).
Nataliya grew up during the economic instability of the late 1980s as Communism began to unravel in the USSR and the 1990s during the chaotic transition to capitalism. Inflation was more than 200% a month unemployment as high as 13%. Nataliya’s parents were both paid irregularly during this period, sometimes months or even years in arrears! As a result, Nataliya usually only received on Christmas Day a small bag of candy, nuts, and an orange (a rare commodity in post-Soviet Ukraine). Today, she limits Christmas to three gifts and a few stocking stuffers per person. In Ukraine, the rest of Christmas Day was spent visiting family and relaxing. It was considered bad luck to do any sort of housework, even cooking or washing laundry.
This contrasts sharply with my family’s Christmas traditions, so we have been harmonizing our different expectations during the last several years. For example, I grew up experiencing Christmas as a day-long marathon since both sets of my grandparents also lived in Cincinnati. Occasionally, we would visit both on Christmas Day after unwrapping numerous presents at my parents’ house. On the other hand, Christmas at Nataliya’s house is usually over in a few minutes since each person only had a few presents.
Joint Christmas (Dec. 25) with Nataliya and the Glassers.
Nataliya also grew up with some unique traditions for the New Year, but we haven’t retained them. The “old” New Year’s Eve (January 13) was another time for family to gather for a large feast but without kutya since that was specific to Christmas. Children and teenagers would also sing carols, called shchedrivka, on New Year’s Eve too. On New Year’s Day (January 14), Ukrainians have a traditional method (called malanka) of welcoming the New Year. To bring luck in the New Year, a male relative or neighbor must be the first person to visit each house while carrying grain in their pockets or in a small sack. Nataliya’s extended family lived on a plot of land together so her paternal grandfather would usually have the duty of visiting everyone. To have a woman visit first would instead bring bad luck, according to tradition.
Unfortunately, there don’t seem to be indications of a Ukrainian victory on the horizon in 2023. Nevertheless, Zelensky and the Ukrainian populace are maintaining their resolve. In addition, the Ukrainian diaspora around the world (including Cincinnati) continues to raise money and donate supplies to sustain the defense of their homeland. The local chapter of the Ukrainian Women’s League of America also hosted a Christmas celebration on the traditional date of January 8 at the Fleming Road United Church of Christ. The event included a potluck, Koliadka, a nativity performance, and an appearance by St. Nick which attracted a strong turnout.
$24,000 for a hospital in the Sumy region of northeastern Ukraine. The event included a showcase of different performances from around the world including ballet dancers and an opera singer. The event also included hors d’oeuvres and several raffle drawings. The concert ended with a dramatic and emotional unveiling of the Ukrainian flag!
Other fundraisers last year include the two food festivals which raised a combined $82,000. I am surprised and relieved by Cincinnati’s continued support for its sister city Kharkiv. I hope that the momentum continues for as long as necessary in 2023.
Originally, I had planned to visit Paris in the fall with my dad (long delayed by COVID), but it has been rescheduled yet again until 2023! Since I already had an October vacation scheduled at work, I took a short hiking trip to Brown County, Indiana, instead. Brown County has been billed as the “Little Smokey Mountains,” and, although I discovered the comparison is not really apt, I still enjoyed myself.
Nataliya also had some time off during the week, so she joined me on the first leg of the trip to Versailles State Park in southeastern Indiana (about an hour west of Cincinnati). We arrived at lunchtime and ordered takeout from the Hong Dragon in Versailles. The food was inexpensive with very large portions and lots of vegetables (just as Nataliya prefers).
The park admission fee is $9 for out-of-state visitors, and the park has several hiking, biking, and horseback trails. The hiking trails are relatively short and easy, so Nataliya and I actually hiked one of the mountain bike trails (#6, about 4 miles long and moderately difficult). We didn’t encounter any bikers since we visited on a weekday, and only a few other hikers. Overall, the trail wasn’t too challenging but didn’t offer any scenic views either.
Afterwards, we stopped to rest on a park bench near the picturesque Versailles Lake. We spotted several fascinating herons on the Fallen Timber Creek. In the summer season, fishing and boat/canoe rentals are available. The park also includes a swimming pool and campgrounds.
Since Nataliya works on the weekends, she drove home separately while I continued on to my Airbnb rental in Nashville (not to be confused with its more famous namesake in Tennessee). Nashville was 90 minutes west of Versailles and about 2.5 hours from Cincinnati. I stayed in an apartment in Franklin Square which was quiet and comfortable, aside from the futon/couch. After a long day of hiking, I tried to grab a quick bite to eat at Brozinni’s Pizza; but, much to my dismay, I waited nearly an hour for a carry-out order for a single calzone! The chicken, bacon, and ranch calzone was tasty, but it wasn’t worth to wait!
Nashville only has a permanent population of 1,200 but has a long history as a haven for artists. Numerous artists are still active, and you can visit dozens of galleries exhibiting paintings, stained glass, and sculptures, among many other creations. However, I didn’t have time to visit any galleries since I was only interested in hiking. But I would certainly diversify a little if I were in town again in the future for more than just a couple days. Bloomington is on the western side of Brown County Park and about 30 minutes west of Nashville. It’s a little further away but also offers more amenities and housing options since it’s the home of Indiana University.
Day 2: Brown County State Park
I tried to get up early and grab a bite to eat at a coffee shop so I could maximize my hiking time, but I was thwarted! Although there are several coffee shops in town, none of them opened before 9 a.m., not even the brunch diner! After a brief, fruitless search in the cool crisp autumn dawn, I settled for a cup of instant protein oatmeal back at my rental unit.
On the other hand, I was relieved to discover that the famous Brown County State Park is open at 7 a.m. (also a $9 fee). I started off with a short and easy hike around Ogle Lake ((trail #7, 1.5 miles). I added on a short, steep climb up to the camping grounds (trail #5, .75 miles, rugged). The lake was very quiet and scenic, with only a few other hikers. I was a little early for the full autumn foliage color, but it was still very pretty. My only complaint was that some of the wooden plank platforms around the lake were a little uneven.
Next, I took another hike around Strahl Lake (trail #6, 1.5 miles, rugged). The trailhead is located at the nature center and begins with an extended descent down to the lake. The lake was also peaceful, but the wooden plank platforms were even more decrepit than those at Ogle Lake. However, the lake does over a good view of a pine tree plantation planted by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) to stop erosion in the 1930s. Be prepared for a long, steep climb back up to the nature center with numerous staircases along the way!
The ruins are located across the street from the nature center but aren’t marked on the map. The “trailhead” for the path is hidden at the back of a nearby picnic area but isn’t marked by any signage. The path is nearly indiscernible and heavily overgrown, but intrepid hikers can find the ruins about 100 meters into the brush. It’s unfortunate the barracks (including a recreation hall and dining facility) were demolished in the 1960s, but the ruins are still an interesting and hidden attraction. But I wish they were more accessible to the public!
I finished off the day on trail #2 (2 miles, moderate) which features several stone bridges also built by the CCC. The trail loops around several clusters of cabins near the Abe Martin Lodge and passes by the northern lookout tower. However, several of the stone bridges are near collapse and one already has! It was disappointing to see the state of disrepair, especially when the parks charge an admission fee! The parks should do more to maintain and preserve the legacy of the CCC in Brown County.
I stopped to try and catch a scenic sunset at Hesitation Point but was thwarted by heavy cloud cover.
On my way back to my rental, I stopped at the Chocolate Moose for an enormous bowl of s’mores style ice cream. It was tasty, but the graham cracker crumbs were too sparse to add much flavor.
Overall, Brown County State Park was just that – a state park in need of maintenance. There are certainly some hills in the area, but they aren’t even in the same league as the Smokey Mountains. Someone could only make that mistake if they’ve never left Indiana….
I started out with a short, easy hike on the Resource Management Trail (trail #2, 1 mile). The trail features lots of educational signage which also tries to justify logging as a way of “managing” the forest.
I spent the rest of the day on another loop around Yellowwood Lake (trail #1, 4.5 miles, easy). The 133-acre Yellowwood Lake was dammed in 1938 by the Works Progress Administration (another New Deal program to create jobs and improve infrastructure). The forest was nearly deserted, and I was pleasantly surprised to find two garter snakes sunbathing on the path! You can also add on a steep climb on the High King trail (1/2 mile, rugged) with a view of the lake from the peak.
Overall, my Indiana hiking trip was a great respite from packing up my belongings in order to relocate by the end of October. The clean air, rustic quietude, and natural beauty were refreshing. I also enjoyed being mostly unplugged for several days. I’m only sorry Nataliya couldn’t accompany me the whole time!
However, the “crown jewel” of Brown County State Park was nice but hardly the must-see destination that it’s been made out to be by influencers on Instagram. A longer stay would also give me more time to explore the art scene and the numerous other nature preserves and forests in the region. Brown County may not compete with the Smokey Mountains, but it’s a good alternative if you’re looking for something different besides Red River Gorge and Hocking Hills.
When I was laid off in June, a friend suggested that I take a vacation before looking for a new a job. He suggested that I go drink Mai Tais on a beach in Thailand, but, since the quickest flight to Thailand is 24 hours one way, I opted for non-alcoholic beer on the shores of Lake Erie instead.
I had taken a quick trip to Cleveland several years ago before the pandemic, and I had wanted to go back and visit a couple of things I had skipped the first time around. Nataliya wanted to go back to Michigan, but we settled on Cleveland since we only had a couple days off before I started my new job.
On the way north, we stopped for lunch at the Brown Bag Deli in Columbus. Both our sandwiches and the cranberry apple salad were delicious with generous portions. The salad had tons of dried cranberries with crisp juicy apple slices. I had Leroy’s Smokin’ Sandwich with pastrami, smoked ham, smoked cheddar, sauerkraut, and 1000 island dressing on grilled rye. Nataliya had the Molly’s Favorite with turkey, sundried tomato pesto, mozzarella, and spinach.
Before checking in at our AirBnB rental, we explored the Cuyahoga Valley National Park. Originally designated a national recreation area in 1974, the area was later redesignated as a national park in 2000, despite complaints that area did not meet the standards for such status. Unfortunately, I tend to agree; although the Cuyahoga Valley is very pretty, it isn’t even in the same league as Mammoth Cave, Death Valley, or the Grand Canyon. It would be perfectly adequate as a state or local park. Nevertheless, it does have a lot of history and offers lots of hiking opportunities.
Blue Hen Falls, Cuyahoga Valley National Park
The park contains a section of the old Ohio and Erie Canal, which stretched from the Ohio River to Lake Erie. The canal was built during the 1820s and 1830s, but only operated until 1861 when it was surpassed by the railroad. After the 1860s, the canal decayed due to neglect and flooding. The canal is the “backbone” of the national park and nearly 20 miles of the original towpath, where horses pulled barges along the banks, have been restored as a hiking trail.
The Blue Hen Falls trail was our first destination which was a 2.5-mile round trip. The path was moderately difficult since we climbed and descended several hundred steps. In addition, the trail crosses a road and approaches the interstate as well, which brings a lot of traffic noise. However, the falls were very quiet and calm, although the final descent to the falls was very steep and muddy.
A park ranger suggested several other destinations and we stopped at the Everett Covered Bridge next. Originally built in the 1870s, the reconstructed bridge is the only one remaining in the area. A flood destroyed the bridge a century later in 1975, but it was rebuilt in 1986. There are some trails nearby as well as the small village of Everett. It was a cute location, but we only stayed for a few minutes to wander and take a couple pictures.
Everett Covered Bridge, Cuyahoga Valley
We made one more stop before calling it quits for the day – Beaver Marsh, which encompasses the old Lock #26 from the Ohio and Erie Canal. After the canal was abandoned, nature began to reclaim the wetlands. Beavers built a system of dams that reflooded the area and volunteers cleaned up garbage that had been dumped there, including car parts and bed springs. We didn’t see any beavers while we were visiting, but we did spot a turtle and a Great Blue Heron!
There are a number of other attractions and good trails in Cuyahoga Valley, but it was time to head out for our Airbnb. However, one notable feature that I’d like to try on our next trip is the Cuyahoga Valley Scenic Railroad! Built in 1880, the railroad went into decline, but was renewed in 1972 as a non-profit venture. The railroad operates diesel-electric and steam trains on 26 miles of track. The group hosts various special events including Christmas rides, a dinner train, craft beer excursions, and murder mysteries. I bet the train offers a great foliage tour in the autumn!
We finally arrived at our Airbnb rental, which was located above the Rowley Inn – a bar and grill in the Tremont neighborhood. I was a little skeptical at first since I still have trouble sleeping and was a little worried about noise filtering up to the apartment. However, Nataliya thought it was an ideal location since it’s across the street from the Christmas Story house from the iconic 1983 movie. The house was renovated in 2004 and became a tourist attraction with daily tours and rooms to rent overnight. However, Nataliya was content with a picture in front of the iconic house and a quick trip to the gift shop where she posed with the famous Leg Lamp. The Bumpus family home is right next door too.
We carried our bags upstairs to our rental and settled in. Some noise did filter up into the apartment from the restaurant but only in the living room where there were several air vents that connect directly with the bar downstairs. In addition, the restaurant closed at 11 p.m. and opened at 7 a.m. so there weren’t any late-night parties downstairs.
Day 2: Art Museum & Downtown
I had visited the Cleveland Museum of Art on my previous trip and was eager to go back again since I didn’t even see half the collection last time! We visited several exhibits, including the Native American artifacts and a recently restored collection of tapestries. The tapestry exhibit included a video about how Belgian specialists cleaned and restored the textiles which was very interesting. The set of four tapestries depicts the early modern life during the four seasons: spring (gardening and fishing), summer (grain harvesting), autumn (wine making), and winter (ice skating). This set of tapestries are notable since it is one of only four copies known to include silk threads wrapped in silver and gold. This means the patron who commissioned the tapestries was very wealthy. The tapestries might have been woven in Paris during the 1600s based on a Flemish design created in the 1535. The tapestries were donated to the museum in 1952.
The cafeteria was also impressive, and Nataliya and I both ordered sushi roll boxes. Again, we only saw a portion of the collection and we could easily spend several days there exploring it all!
The historic Cleveland Arcade was our last stop of the day. Built in 1890, the arcade’s design was influenced by a Milanese gallery. It reminded me of the Musee d’Orsay in Paris with all its steel and glass, hence the nickname “Cleveland’s Crystal Palace.” Over the decades, it fell into disrepair as the downtown district began to crumble. But the Arcade was the first building in Cleveland to be placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1975. Threatened with demolition, the Arcade was saved after a massive $60 million restoration project in 2001. Now a large part of the Arcade has been converted into a Hyatt Regency Hotel so you rent the old storefronts overnight. When we arrived late in the afternoon, most of the other businesses were closed but we did grab a bite to eat at Pizza 216.
Then we strolled around downtown a bit more, which was much cleaner and more vibrant than downtown Cincinnati usually is (except for festivals and other events). We immediately discovered another historic arcade right across the street (5th Street Arcades). It’s comprised of two separate arcades, the Colonial Arcade (built 1898) and Euclid Arcade (built 1911), which were connected in 2000. Although smaller and less famous, the 5th Street Arcades were also very beautiful and had a greater diversity of tenants, including numerous shops and restaurants.
Our final stop for the night was the Soldiers and Sailors monument which honors veterans from the Civil War. Built in 1894, the monument was restored in 2008, and in 2019 the names of black soldiers were added to the monument after being initially excluded. There is a small exhibit space inside of the monument, but it was closed when we visited.
Day 3: Put-in-Bay
We started our morning with breakfast at the Terrapin Bakery, only two blocks from the Rowley Inn. The bakery has a great selection of pastries and several large and tasty breakfast sandwiches. That gave us the fuel we needed for a full day of adventure at Put-in-Bay. This popular tourist destination is located on South Bass Island in Lake Erie, which is about an hour and 15 minutes west of Cleveland. The ferry provides inexpensive and frequent service to the island.
I had first visited the island about 30 years ago on a school field trip to northern Ohio, but I haven’t been back in more than 25 years. You can rent a golf cart or bicycle to get around the island, but Nataliya insisted on walking. It’s feasible, but I certainly exceeded my daily step count goal! We stopped for lunch at Joe’s Bar which only offers basic bar food, such as burgers and hotdogs.
We strolled along Put-in-Bays boardwalk but weren’t interested in any of the restaurants or gift shops. However, I looked forward to returning to the monument to Commodore Oliver Perry’s victory over the British fleet in the War of 1812. I had first visited more than about 25 years ago and was pleasantly surprised to find a visitor’s center had been built in the interim. The facility features lots of historic artifacts as well as a scale model reproduction of the battle.
However, the main attraction is the immense (352 feet tall) Doric column monument to honor Perry’s victory and also pay tribute to the lasting peace between Britain, Canada, and the USA since the war. The monument is the tallest Doric column in the world and was built in 1915. It features an observation deck ($10 fee), but neither I nor Nataliya felt like making use of it.
We made one last stop at Dairy by the Docks after taking the ferry back to the mainland. This unassuming ice cream stand served the largest, most decadent bowls of ice cream we’ve ever had! We easily shared one dish between us.
Day 4: Waterfront & Parma
We had a few more stops to make on our way out of town, including one of my highest priority attractions that I had overlooked several years ago: the USS Cod, a WWII submarine turned museum ship! The USS Cod conducted seven combat patrols in the Pacific Ocean between 1943-45 and sank 12 Japanese ships. The Cod also was the only submarine to rescue the crew of another submarine during WWII when the Dutch submersible O-19 ran aground on a reef in 1945.
After WWII, the USS Cod became a training ship on the Great Lakes and then volunteers took over when the ship was finally deactivated. It was designated a historic landmark and became a museum ship in 1976. The ship underwent extensive repairs in 2021 at a cost of $1.4 million, which was well worth it!
For being nearly 80 years old, the ship was in excellent conditions after the renovations. Nataliya and I explored nearly every nook and cranny on the ship, which features an interesting audio tour. I even sat in the deck gunner’s position! The volunteers were also very informative and helpful. I highly recommend a visit, even if you’re not a history buff like me ($12 fee)!
Afterwards, we strolled the lakefront promenade. The weather was perfect, and the lake was beautiful, if a little windy.
Our last stop in the Ukrainian stronghold of suburban Parma was particularly important for Nataliya since the war against Russia had been underway for 3 months by this point. Due to chain migration, Parma became home to more than 35,000 Ukrainians in the 1970s. The USSR had long restricted emigration but eventually allowed people to travel more freely after signing the Helsinki Accords in 1975.
Parma is still home to thousands of Ukrainians who own many small businesses in the area. There are several Ukrainian churches, and the community has hosted numerous fundraisers in recent months to support their distant homeland. We picked up some comfort food at the Lviv International Food Store, and then got some schnitzel and chebureki at Mama Marie’s Ukrainian Kitchen. The interior is decorated with lots of colorful sunflower decorations (the national flower of Ukraine) as well as images of dancers in traditional Ukrainian garb. We ate the delicious fried foods at a local park before finally heading towards home.
Overall, it was a lot of fun and very relaxing. Just what I needed after being laid off, but a lot cheaper and faster than Thailand!
Ukraine became independent on August 24, 1991, after spending nearly 90 years as part of the USSR (created in 1922). August 24 is a national holiday in Ukraine, but celebrations were muted this year since the war with Russia is still ongoing.
Since August 24 was a Wednesday this year, the local volunteer group Hope4Ukraine hosted an end-of-summer festival on August 21 (Sunday) at the Kolping Center near Winton Woods. The festival included food, music, and kids’ activities. We hosted a similar event in May which was very successful, but the crowds created long lines. We hoped the Kolping Center could help us better accommodate even more people.
Again, Nataliya, her son Alex, and I helped bake hundreds of pierogis ahead of time. I was really looking forward to helping out again and volunteered to distribute drink tickets at the festival. However, I felt slightly ill the day before the event and felt even worse the morning of the festival. I took a COVID test at home and got a positive result! I made it more than 2 years without getting sick, but my luck had finally run out. I suspect Alex brought it home from school since he was also sick, despite testing negative twice.
My throat was extremely sore and was so painful that all I ate that day was Greek yogurt! My throat hurt so bad I thought maybe it was strep throat at first, which I had suffered several times in my youth. In addition, I had an ugly cough and was very tired. I spent most of the day watching TV and snoozing on the couch instead of helping at the festival! Since I am high risk for complications from COVID, I made a video appointment with my doctor on Monday, and she prescribed Paxlovid for me even though I was already starting to feeling better.
Unfortunately, the drug affected my sense of taste and made everything taste very bitter (a small price to pay for extra help). In addition, the Paxlovid could have had several ugly interactions with my other medications, so I had to carefully adjust my prescription regime. But by Tuesday I was well on the road to recovery, and I was almost completely recovered by the end of the week. Thankfully, I tested negative in time for my first and only adult birthday party (40th) which Nataliya thoughtfully organized. In the grand scheme of things, my bout of COVID was very “mild” indeed, but I am still very cautious since I wouldn’t care to repeat the experience or inflict it on anybody else. I’ll sign up for another booster soon as well. I can only imagine how much worse it would have been without vaccines or Paxlovid.
Even without my help, the Ukrainian festival was another big hit! We had raised $36,000 at the first fundraiser in May and hoped to meet or exceed that in August. But by this point, the war had dragged on for 6 months, and I wasn’t sure crowds would still appear like they had in May. I needn’t have worried! My aunt and uncle attended the August festival and said the lines were still wrapped around the Kolping Center. They bought a couple packages of frozen stuffed cabbage (holubtsi), which they later said were delicious. In the end, we raised another $46,000 which will buy vital medical equipment and supplies for hospitals in Nataliya’s hometown of Kharkiv.
Kharkiv is Ukraine’s 2nd largest city and is only 25 miles from the Russian border. The city was partially encircled and under constant rocket and artillery bombardment (including indiscriminate cluster munitions) for nearly 3 months. The city suffered extensive damage and more than 1,000 civilians were killed. The Ukrainians launched a counter-offensive in May that pushed weak Russian forces away from the northern half of the city, but the enemy still threatened the southern part of the region with sporadic bombardment throughout the summer. That was until Ukraine launched another quick and powerful counterattack last week (early September) that forced the Russians to beat another hasty retreat. The Russians were so surprised and demoralized that they reportedly dropped their rifles and fled on bicycles stolen from local residents.
After yet another humiliating defeat (even if relatively minor in scope), the Russians retaliated against Kharkiv and destroyed numerous powerplants, water stations, and other infrastructure. Russia no longer even tries to pretend that they care about avoiding civilian targets. Nataliya’s parents still live in a village on the outskirts of Kharkiv and her mother, Iryna, says the local powerplant was damaged in the barrage. The station was so close that you can see the towers from her parents’ house. Firefighters battled a blaze for 12 hours at the plant, but the station is already back in operation. Nataliya’s parents have had several close calls before, but Nataliya said they remain resolute even after the latest attack.
On the other hand, her brother, Michael, seems to be settling down in Israel. They left Ukraine in June and went to Israel under the Right of Return since his wife has Jewish ancestry. Michael has a young autistic son, Leo, and they managed to secure a spot for him a special needs education program. A bus picks up Leo and there are only a couple other students in the class with him, so they get a lot of individual attention and help. Nataliya hopes to visit them in Israel over spring break next year.
Despite the good news and strong support, it will take a lot of time and money to rebuild what has been damaged or destroyed. Ideally, Putin and the Russians would be forced to pay reparations in exchange for sanctions relief, but that won’t happen any time soon (if ever). Kharkiv is one of Cincinnati’s sister cities, and officials from the Kharkiv Red Cross visited the region last month (August) to begin planning for the post-war future. The officials visited local mental health experts and physical therapists in search of advice about how to help injured and traumatized residents after the war. They also praised the local sister city association which helped raise $117,000 to buy food and medicine in Kharkiv.
Another local volunteer group, Cincy4Ukraine, continues to collect donations of clothing and medical supplies as well. We spent several hours sorting and packaging the latest round of donations which will easily fill another 1-ton cargo truck!
Our next major fundraiser is a gala concert at 6:30 p.m. on October 8. Tickets include a cocktail reception and hors d’oeuvres. The program includes opera, ballet, and various performers from around the globe.
The “Happiest Place on Earth” was a welcome respite during the war in Ukraine. Nataliya and I had originally planned to go to Disney World back in 2020, but the trip was delayed until earlier this year (April 2022). However, Nataliya especially needed a chance to recuperate after enduring the first six weeks of Russia’s invasion of her homeland, Ukraine (the war has lasted 6 months as of publication). In fact, the day before we left, we had helped bake hundreds of pierogis that would be served at the initial Ukrainian Food Festival. Plus, I had also been laid off shortly before we departed, although I quickly found a new job after returning home.
Day 1 – Hollywood Studios & Galaxy’s Edge
Our flight landed in Orlando at 11:30 a.m., and we hoped we could make it our first destination, Hollywood Studios, by about 1 p.m. That proved to be hopelessly optimistic! We had rented a car through the Nu rental agency, which was located a short distance from the airport. But we didn’t expect a long delay since they supposedly offered “regular” shuttle service. Instead, we ended up waiting more than an hour and ultimately took an $20 Uber ride instead! Not once, but TWICE the bus stopped but refused to pick us up because the van was full. The passengers offered to make room for us, but the driver still refused to let us on. Then, the driver had the gall to call us impatient because we started to complain about being left behind yet again! With nearly 2,500 reviews on Google, the 2.3/5 rating is well deserved! I strongly advise against using Nu rentals, especially if you’re in a hurry! Out of desperation, I ordered an Uber, but then we spent another 20 minutes wandering around trying to find the pickup spot. The driver was extremely patient and helpful, so I gave him a 50% tip out of gratitude.
We finally arrived at Hollywood Studios at 3 p.m. which was two hours later than our expectation. I fondly remember Hollywood Studios from my first visit some 30 years ago. Rather than heading straight to Galaxy’s Edge, as one might have expected me to do, the Indiana Jones Stunt Spectacular (debuted 1989) was our first stop since we arrived late in the afternoon and only one performance remained. I remembered the show fondly from my childhood and was not disappointed! I had a grin from ear to ear as I watched Indiana and Marion recreate exciting scenes from the movie. Not much had changed in 30 years, excepted the Nazi swastikas had been replaced. The iconic escape from the giant rolling boulder and the exciting battle at the Nazi airbase were my favorite parts. With a runtime of 25 minutes, the show was well worth the very brief wait (due to our Lightning Lane access). I was already starting to feel like a kid again!
Before hustling over to Galaxy’s Edge, we made one final side-trip down nostalgia lane to the updated Star Tours ride (debuted 1987). While the Indiana Jones stunt show had been mostly unchanged for 30 years, Star Tours had undergone a complete overhaul in 2011. However, the entrance and experience while waiting in line still included R2-D2 and C-3PO who I fondly remembered. On the other hand, the actual ride experience was completely different with an entirely new story line and modern 3-D technology. At less than 5 minutes, the ride was extremely fast paced but well worth it due to the short line. I left feeling a little queasy but that’s not surprising, since it doesn’t take much to make me start feeling motion sick.
Finally, we raced over to Galaxy’s Edge where we were not disappointed! We headed straight to the Millennium Falcon: Smuggler’s Run (debuted 2019) ride which turned out to be my favorite attraction from the whole trip. The life-size Millennium Falcon outside really set the tone, and the interior was completely convincing! I felt like I was really aboard the iconic ship. I definitely wanted to be a pilot as opposed to a gunner or mechanic. Six people can ride together (2 for each crew position), and fortunately the other participants were a single mom and her two very young children who were content to be engineers.
Giddy with anticipation, I settled into one of the pilot’s seats with Alex, Nataliya’s son, as my co-pilot. The controls were somewhat awkward with Alex only controlling the left/right maneuvers, and I could only maneuver up/down so it took us a while to start working together effectively. In addition, the music and sound effects were very loud which made it difficult for us to communicate and coordinate. Nevertheless, we managed to complete our mission without turning the beloved Falcon into a wreck! Nataliya, Alex, and I had taken several trips together before, but this made me feel like we were really becoming a family, even though Alex is only a lukewarm Star Wars fan. Nevertheless, I still felt it was a turning point, even if Alex didn’t notice. Although the ride amounted to little more than a giant video arcade game, it resonated with me more than Rise of the Resistance (Day 3). The experience can also be different each time depending on how well you perform, and a near disaster might leave the trusty Falcon clanking and sparking as you exit. This was a life-long dream come true! Although Alex is 13 years old, I felt like a little kid again!
By this point, it was late in the day, so we ordered a carry-out dinner from Docking Bay 7. This was a very convenient feature from the Genie app, in addition to the Lightning Lane option which lets you skip long lines. Nataliya and I had the smoked Kaadu pork ribs which were delicious, although I swapped out rice and broccoli for the corn muffin and cabbage slaw. It was tasty although a little too spicy for Nataliya’s taste. Alex had the fried Endorian yip-tip (fried chicken) with mac and cheese. Alex, a notoriously picky eater, hardly touched the fried chicken, which came in two large cubes, but still raves to this day about the mac and cheese. That says a lot coming from a mac and cheese connoisseur like Alex! We had Outpost puffs for dessert which were also pretty tasty although Nataliya and I easily shared one. We ate in the small courtyard outside, and, although Nataliya complained about the incessant Star Wars-inspired muzak, I quite enjoyed it. The food was a little pricey, but the portions were large.
Kaadu Pork RibsOutpost puffs and Yip-Tip
After dinner, we briefly explored the rest of Galaxy’s Edge since it had been a long day of traveling. Perhaps most surprising of all, we managed to wander through the Black Spire market without spending any more credits. I had considered making a reservation at the droid depot or lightsaber workshop but felt I couldn’t really justify $100 for a droid or $200 for a lightsaber. Although we had been there for about 4 hours (instead of 6 like we hoped), we got to see most of what we wanted to see, but I came back later in the week for the “piece de resistance” (pun intended).
Day 2 – Cocoa Beach
We had planned to mix in a couple “off” days to recuperate from the theme parks, so we spent the second day at Cocoa Beach (about an hour from our off-site hotel). We got a late start before heading out. We had considered visiting the Kennedy Space Center too but decided to just lounge on the beach all afternoon. I’m not much of a beach bum, but the beaches were nice, and I did enjoy relaxing (except when Alex, who is not a strong swimmer, defiantly insisted on swimming too far out into the waves)! We had dinner at the Boardwalk Bar on the Cocoa Beach Pier and grabbed dessert from Coney Island Hot Dogs. The pier offers a great view of the beach and the ocean. It was definitely a good idea to take a break from the parks, and I very felt refreshed.
Day 3 – Epcot & Galaxy’s Edge Redux
We started our third day at EPCOT which was fun but not really a highlight for me. There were some interesting displays and lots of neat architectural exhibits, but I wasn’t impressed since I prefer to visit Paris itself (not a copy). We did have a tasty pretzel sandwich with cheese and ham. However, Alex started to get a little tired and grouchy at lunch (frankly I was surprised he coped so well for as long as he did). After lunch, we split up: Nataliya and Alex went to the Animal Kingdom, and I went back to Galaxy’s Edge. Then we planned to meet back up at the nightly fireworks show at EPCOT.
I expected to spend the majority of the afternoon waiting in line for the Rise of Resistance ride (debuted 2019), and my estimate was spot-on. As I walked up to the queue, I learned the ride was out of commission, so I spent 30 minutes exploring parts of the Black Spire outpost that I had only seen at a passing glance previously. I was lucky enough to see some of First Order stormtroopers patrol. After the queue began moving again, I got back in line for Rise of the Resistance. I’m not really a fan of the new sequel trilogy, but the ride seemed to be very popular, and I thought I should give it a try since I had free time.
I had tried to plan ahead for a long wait by bringing a portable battery to recharge my phone, but I didn’t bring the right adapter with me. So instead of listening to a Star Wars audiobook, I ended up waiting aimlessly for more than 3 hours. Thankfully, most of the queue was shaded, but there weren’t any bathrooms along the way. I suggest you plan very strategically – avoid drinking lots of water beforehand, otherwise you’ll have to go all the way back out and hope your former neighbors will let you reclaim your spot in line! My neighbors frequently complained about people barging their way through the line in an apparent attempt to do just that. There were some interesting displays of various Star Wars equipment and blasters as we slowly inched through underground tunnels, but you definitely need to be prepared for a long wait and bring some books or other entertainment with you (especially if you have small children). The ride broke down once while I was in line, and apparently the ride suffers at least 3 mechanical faults every day!
Eventually, we reached an underground briefing room where a holographic image of Rey gave us a mission. We then boarded a small shuttle which launched and was immediately ambushed by the First Order. We were captured and brought aboard a First Order star destroyer, which, much to my disappointment, contained yet another queue (just when we thought we were done with all that)! There were several cast members dressed as First Order officers who “interrogated” some of the “prisoners” while we waited to be assigned to a detention cell. That was a neat touch and really created a sense of immersion. Then, we waited inside the prison for awhile until we heard some faint voices and suspicious noises.
Lucky for me, I was standing right next to the spot were a door suddenly slid open as Resistance agents appeared to “rescue” us. They ushered us onto to droid-controlled carts which we rode as we raced throughout the star destroyer. The experience was more of a special effects extravaganza as opposed to a true thriller ride with lots of stormtroopers shooting at us and Kylo Ren pursing us. There was one short swift lift upward that provided a brief rush and a corresponding sharp drop at the end, but otherwise we zipped across mostly level ground. Occasionally we swerved or spun around, but the emphasis was on all the visual and sound effects. It was definitely the closest experience you can find to actually being in a Star Wars movie, but the ride itself lasted less than 5 minutes. RFID technology allows the carts to navigate without using tracks. Other features include audio-animatronic figures and motion simulators – with thousands riding Rise of the Resistance each day, it’s no wonder such a complex system breaks down every couple of hours!
Disney claims the ride lasts an average of 18 minutes, but that misleadingly includes the preliminary briefing and brief introduction on the shuttle (before the final queue). Again, I’m not a huge fan of the sequel trilogy so it might be a higher priority if you’re more interested in the new canon. Otherwise, I’d say its your judgement if you think it’s worth a 3+ hour wait during peak hours. I ended up waiting about 3.5 hours and the ride broke down a third time right after I exited. The wait times can be a mere 2 hours later in the evening, or you can try to purchase special Lighting Lane access for an additional $15 (not included in the regular Lightning Lane price). However, there’s a daily quota of special Lightning Lane slots for Rise of the Resistance which usually sell out as soon as the park opens so don’t count on that option. Otherwise, be prepared to settle in for a long haul!
By the time I escaped from the clutches of Kylo Ren, I was pretty hungry, so I ordered another carry-out dinner from Docking Bay 7. This time I picked the Batuuan beef stir fry, which was also pretty good, although the meat came in two huge cubes again.
My misadventures weren’t over yet! By this point, my cellphone was almost out of power, so I wasn’t able to call or text Nataliya to coordinate our rendezvous at the fireworks. I searched for a charging station but ended up having to buy another portable battery for $30 from a special Disney-approved vending machine. I thought it was better to be safe than sorry since the sun had already set, and I was not at all confident of my ability to find Nataliya and Alex in a large nighttime crowd at the fireworks display. Of course, I literally bumped into Nataliya as soon as I stepped out of the shop that sold the chargers.
The fireworks display was pretty impressive with synchronized music and lights. Afterwards, we trudged back out to our car (we didn’t pay extra for $25 for a closer spot), and we slept very soundly after walking all day. This was our last day at Disney, but we covered most of what we wanted to see since we paid extra for park hopper tickets. Splitting up on the second day was also a good idea.
Disney World is much more complicated than when I had last visited some 30 years ago. All the new technology is intended to make things easier, but it was pretty confusing even though I consider myself a reasonably intelligent person. The Genie app tries to create a personalized itinerary, but we found that to be pretty useless. On the other hand, the ability to pre-order carry-out meals was very useful. The additional $15 per day for the Genie+ service was definitely worth it, and we used it to book Lightning Lane privileges for several attractions which made it much easier for us to squeeze in the maximum amount of fun on our first day at Disney (which was limited by our late arrival). But Lightning Lane doesn’t include every attraction and some, such as Rise of the Resistance, require a separate Lightning Lane pass for an additional fee (another $15). Maybe you’re starting to see what I mean about the technological complexity? You even need to make “reservations” for specific parks on specific days after you buy your tickets, which is a relatively new change introduced in 2020 after the pandemic.
Overall, I had a great time at Disney, and I wouldn’t mind going back again – especially for a few more flights on the Millennium Falcon! However, even if we do go back, I don’t think I’ll sign up for the Star Wars Galactic Starcruiser experience. I might be interested if the price were considerably lower, but at $1,200 per person per night that’s $4,800 for two people since it’s a 2-night itinerary. It’s an immersive experience on a Halcyon starcruiser, with some fun activities including sabaac lessons (gambling), lightsaber training, and flight crew training. The food on the menu looks like it could have come right out of the Mos Eisley cantina, and Disney cast members act out adventures onboard the ship. But so far, reviews are mixed, and with more than 160 reviews on Google the Galactic starcruiser only scores an average of 3.8/5. People have complained about trying to complete the app-based activities and the small size of the rooms. But I’ll give it a try if we ever win the lottery!
This might sound odd, but I was annoyed that tipping ISN’T allowed at Disney or Universal, except for certain resort positions in hotels or sit-down restaurants. Disney and Universal raised the minimum wage to $15 in 2021, but Orlando still faces a housing affordability crisis and a lack of public transportation. I should have the option to tip the cast members selling drinks or ice cream on a hot day, or the Stormtroopers who are stuck in unbearably uncomfortable outfits in the blazing sun! But if did try to tip them, they might be fired. To assuage my guilt after returning home, I donated to a food bank that specifically serves Disney cast members in need. It’s ridiculous that I’m not allowed to tip when cast members still struggle to make ends meet in an expensive city like Orlando.
Day 4 – Boggy Creek Airboat Adventures
We took another day off from the parks and slept in before heading about 45 minutes south to Boggy Creek Airboat Adventures on Lake Tohopekaliga (the name means “we will gather here” in Seminole) near Kissimmee. We had a small discount from a brochure and booked 30-minute tours for about $30 each. Boggy Creek also offers hour-long tours, as well as sunset and evening options. You can pay a little extra to add on a few other activities offered at Boggy Creek, such as sifting for fossils and gems at the “mine” or feeding the alligators at the gator pen. Boggy Creek also offers a small BBQ restaurant and a recreation of a “village” of the local Jororo tribe. However, the website refers to the Jororo as a “primitive” people which is condescending and misleading.
Nevertheless, we enjoyed our 30-minute airboat tour despite a delay due to a technical problem. Our pilot was very knowledgeable and showed us a couple of alligator nests. It turns out we went at just the right time, because our pilot said the alligators would soon start to abandon their nests and be much harder to locate. Our pilot said he got to know the alligators individually since he visited them so often. It was a wonderfully relaxing trip out on the lake which, aside from the giant airboat fan, was very quiet and calm compared to the blaring noises and crowds of Disney. We also saw a few birds including a wood stork.
On the way home, we stopped at the World Food Truck park in Kissimmee which features more than 50 different vendors, including burgers, donuts, Chinese, wings, and pizza as well as numerous Latin American options. I wanted to try the Venezuelan food truck, but it was closed so I ended up with a large fried plantain sandwich (patacon). Nataliya ordered a giant surf and turf dish with beef, shrimp, and plantains. It was all delicious and cheap, so we had lots of leftovers.Patacon
Day 5 – Universal Studios & Hogwarts
Nataliya loves Harry Potter so we couldn’t leave Orlando without visiting Universal Studio’s Wizarding World! Our first stop was the Men in Black: Alien Attack ride (debuted in 2000). I had enjoyed the first movie when it came out and the ride was pretty entertaining! The line was long but moved pretty quickly, and there were several interesting displays to distract us while we waited, including various video messages from Chief Zed and weapons exhibits. It was definitely one of the best in-line experiences we had at any park.
All three of us managed arranged to sit together, so we strapped ourselves into our cart and started with a training session. Quickly though, we were dispatched to blast numerous invading aliens who swarmed over New York City. Some of them were pretty small targets, and aliens also suddenly appeared out of nowhere! A surprise twist in the middle of the ride had us battling another cart full of riders before we used our secret weapon to defeat a huge animatronic alien in the dramatic finale! I scored “cosmically average” which I felt was a good accomplishment for a rookie. There are several different endings depending on how well you and your partners score, but I don’t think our team made the cut to be MIB unfortunately!
Next, we visited E.T. Adventure (debuted 1991) which is based on the beloved movie from my childhood! First, we received our “interplanetary passports” (a laminated card with a barcode that corresponds to each rider’s first name) and sat down on our bicycle seats which was a unique change. The bikes are attached to a platform that is suspended beneath an overhead rail.
The ride starts with the dramatic escape at the end of the movie as we flew over police cars and NASA officials. Then, we were transported to E.T.’s home world, the Green Planet, where we helped him restore the environment. At the end of the ride, E.T. thanked us all by name (using the barcode passports). Built in 1991, the ride was refurbished in 2017. It’s a charming and nostalgic experience as opposed to thrilling.
For our next ride, we picked Skull Island: Reign of Kong (debuted 2016). I’ve never seen the movie, but the ride was pretty fun and features 3D graphics. The wait was only about 30 or 40 minutes. We grabbed our 3D glasses as we boarded our trucks which are “driven” by animatronic figures. There are several different driver personas so you can have slightly different experiences on each ride.
The truck was attacked by various bat-like monsters and dinosaurs as we tried to rescue an explorer that was kidnapped by the creatures. One of the most memorable moments for me was when a dinosaur splashed into a pool of water and real water droplets were sprayed into the truck! It was a pretty neat effect that was very realistic. Suddenly, Kong interrupted the attack and began fighting the vicious dinosaurs! Unfortunately, the truck was knocked off the road, and we took a frightening tumble over the cliffside before Kong saved us again.
Alex loves rollercoasters and took a ride on the Velocicoaster (debuted 2021) while Nataliya and I opted for a break. Although it’s one of the newest attractions in the park, the wait was less than an hour. The ride features top speeds of 70 mph and a zero-g stall zone. The sharpest drop is 140 feet – definitely not for the faint of heart! Alex seemed a little disappointed with the ride and said the seat was very uncomfortable.
Next, we stopped at Poseidon’s Fury (debuted 1999) which is a special effects show set in the Temple of Poseidon (the Greek god of the sea). Alex loves ancient mythology and I love Indiana Jones adventures, so we thought it might be fun. But in the end, it was probably the least impressive attraction we experienced at Universal Studios. The line was very short which was one positive aspect of the experience, so we didn’t have to wait inside the poorly lit, damp tunnels too long. A barrage of special effects was unleashed as we were guided through the temple, including fireballs, swirling whirlpools, and laser blasts. It wasn’t necessarily a bad experience, but it just didn’t compare to the other attractions in the park. Afterwards, we stopped for a snack at the nearby Desert Kebab House, which features a Mediterranean inspired menu with pork, chicken, beef, and vegan options. However, Alex is a very picky eater and vehemently avoids anything with even a hint of flavor, so the grill gave us one chicken kebab without any sauce for Alex. He eventually ate it since we were all pretty hungry by then. But the kebabs had a delicious North African chermoula sauce which had a lot of flavor but wasn’t too spicy.
After taking a break to digest and recuperate, we caught the last performance of the Jason Bourne Stuntacular (debuted 2017). I loved the movies, so I was looking forward to it and was not disappointed! The line moved very quickly, and the lobby included exhibits of authentic movie props such as the iconic red Mini Cooper from the original “Bourne Identity” film. The spectacular includes both live action stunts and computer-generated graphics that blend together almost seamlessly on the screens that are 130 feet wide and 28 feet tall! In 20 minutes, Bourne is chased through numerous exotic locations, including Tangiers, Morocco, and Dubai, in the United Arab Emirates. This high-tech production makes it really feel like Bourne is racing across the stage in a motorcycle while police cars chase him. Compared to the Indiana Jones stunt show, Jason Bourne came in a very close second. Indiana Jones has a special place in my childhood, and I prefer the traditional stunt methods as opposed to relying on CGI (as impressive as it may be).
By now, it was starting to get dark, and we grabbed a couple sweet treats before the seasonal Mardi Gras parade started. Since I’m a Francophile, I couldn’t afford to pass up an opportunity to try the giant crepes. We picked the lemon blueberry but had to wait at least 15 minutes since the line was pretty long. They also offer strawberry hazelnut and cookies & cream varieties, as well as several savory options (including vegan). The crepe was overloaded with lemon mascarpone, blueberries, lemon curd, whipped cream, lemon poundcake, AND powered sugar! It was too much for one person, but I shared it with Nataliya.
Although we were visiting in mid-April, Universal Studios stretches their Mardi Gras celebration out almost until the end of the month (which slightly irked me since it was about two months overdue). However, it was a lot of fun since I’ve never been to the real celebration! You can actually ride one of the floats by either buying an annual pass or waiting in line. There were dozens of garish, gaudy floats with traditional Mardi Gras themes, as well as novel ideas including rockets, volcanoes, and industry. There were lots of dancers and stilt walkers, and Alex and I both caught lots of beads! Nataliya said it was her favorite moment from the trip as she watched us run and jump around trying to catch more. Indeed, it was another moment where we felt very familial. As the music died down and the clouds of confetti settled on the ground, we took another break. The parade also generates a tremendous amount of trash each night, between the confetti and beads, on top of all the regular debris!
Although the sun had set by this point, Alex insisted on riding another rollercoaster before we left, and he picked the Rip Ride Rockit (debuted 2009). It features a vertical climb and a near vertical drop from nearly 170 feet. The coaster also has a rock and roll theme so riders can pick a song to listen to during the ride (there’s also a “secret” track listing you can unlock as well). However, Alex said he couldn’t figure out the controls. I hate rollercoasters and just looking at Rip Ride Rockit made me feel nervous, so I looked the other way until Alex came back. He insisted the ride wasn’t as bad as it looked, even though it reaches speeds of up to 65 mph!
Afterwards, we finally boarded the Hogwarts Express (debuted 2014) and headed towards Hogsmeade! I read a few of the Harry Potter books, but Nataliya is the real fan. We eventually hopped aboard the iconic Hogwarts Express (after twice being turned away by a 45+ minute wait) which was more entertaining than thrilling; however, it was an excellent technical showcase. The express is also a convenient way of traveling around the park as well, but you could find yourself waiting awhile for a seat. It began to rain so we put on our ponchos and caught the very end of the nightly light show at Hogwarts Castle. The light show was pretty impressive, but I think I preferred the Disney show. Afterwards, we trudged through the rain all the way back to our car. Given the mass exodus, I thought we might be stuck in traffic for a while, but it actually flowed very smoothly.
Overall, I enjoyed Universal Studios although it was much louder and more energetic than Disney. Universal felt more like an amusement park environment with rollercoasters and loud music. The Bourne Stuntacular was my favorite part, but nothing can really compete with Galaxy’s Edge! However, Universal Studios definitely offers more thrilling rides and is a fun alternative if you’re burned out spending all day every day at Disney! I think our itinerary worked out perfectly since we took time off to recuperate in between parks.
Nataliya’s brother Michael finally left Ukraine last month and arrived in Israel several weeks ago after a brief stopover in Hungary. Since Michael was still young enough to be conscripted into the Ukrainian armed forces, he had to get special permission to leave after proving he was the sole breadwinner for his family, which includes his non-verbal autistic son. In May, Michael’s family fled to western Ukraine after withstanding rocket and artillery bombardment in the eastern city of Kharkiv for nearly 3 months. They went to Hungary in June and then sought permission to travel to Israel since his wife had Jewish ancestors.
Since the war began, more than 33,000 Ukrainian refugees have fled to Israel including Jews and gentiles. Michael’s family was eligible for several generous assistance programs since they were coming back under the Right to Return policy. The Israeli government gave Michael’s family some money and temporary housing until they found an apartment in a town in northern Israel near Haifa. Michael isn’t sure what their long terms plans are but is grateful for the generous suppport. He continues to work remotely for an American technology company.
However, that leaves Nataliya’s parents as the last holdouts in Kharkiv. They live in a small village on the edge of the city. Although the urban parts of Kharkiv may have borne the brunt of the Russian assault, rockets still destroyed several buildings, including the town hall, in her parent’s village. Nataliya’s aunt and uncle also lived on the same plot of land as her parents, but they also recently left for the Netherlands. Nataliya’s cousin lives there and just gave birth to a baby boy, so her parents came to help her and escape the fighting.
Nataliya’s mother Iryna feels conflicted about all the changes. She is happy for her relatives but now feels very lonely. In addition, Nataliya’s aunt and uncle asked Iryna to care for several animals they left behind. Iryna is happy to help but feels it’s an extra burden on top of everything else when life is still difficult, and the war drags on with no end in sight.
I am heartbroken that fighting continues in Ukraine, but I have also been pleasantly surprised by the ongoing generosity of Cincinnatians who continue to donate after more than 5 months of conflict.
I had hoped that Americans would not become totally desensitized to the war, but I wasn’t sure that they would continue to volunteer and contribute for months on end. Although the Ukrainian food festival in May was a huge hit that raised $36,000, there were some logistical problems that caused a shortage of parking and created very long lines. We have learned from our previous experience and are hosting our next event, a summer family festival, at the Kolping Center, a large event center in the Greenhills neighborhood. This time, the goal is to raise the heroic sum of $50,000 to buy medical equipment for hospitals in Nataliya’s hometown of Kharkiv which is still under Russian bombardment on a regular basis.
The event will be from 12-7p.m. on Sunday, August 21, since Ukraine celebrates its independence on August 24th. The event will include more food of course, as well as kids’ activities, arts and crafts, music, and a silent auction.
In addition, there have been several other successful local events that benefitted Ukraine, including a banquet and auction at the Woodward theater in Over-the-Rhine. Several dozen attended the event in June, which raised more than $14,000 for the charity Razom which provides humanitarian aid. The menu featured traditional Ukrainian dishes including borscht (stew), varenyky (pierogi/dumplings), and banyky (stuffed rolls). The event also included a silent auction and Nataliya and I won tickets to the Museum Center. However, the fashion show featuring traditional Ukrainian vyshyvanka (embroidered shirts) was the highlight of the fundraiser. Nataliya has been embroidering her own example, which is beautiful, but the event showcased dozens of examples that were also very intricate. The vyshyvanka at the fundraiser were also auctioned off to the highest bidder and Nataliya got one at a very nice price.
Finally, Yuriy Fedynsky, a Ukrainian-American composer and singer-songwriter performed at the Wyoming Fine Arts Center in June. He gave a very verbose and meandering lecture on the war in the Ukraine and the history of traditional Ukrainian instruments such as the bandura and kobza (both a type of lute). He also explained how the Soviets had purged and executed nearly all of the kobzars (itinerant blind musicians who played the kobza) during the 1930s. He also played a few songs, but I was expecting a little more music and less preaching (literally). Nevertheless, it was an educational event that helped raise money for Fedynsky’s efforts to promote Ukrainian culture. Slava Ukraini!
If the local Ukrainian food festival raised $5,000 or even $10,000, I thought that would be very successful. In my dreams, I hoped we could reach $15,000 or $20,000, but in the end, we raised an unbelievable $36,000!
The organizers, Cincy4Ukraine and Hope4Ukraine, bought and fully equipped a Mercedes Benz Sprinter ambulance which has already been shipped to Ukraine where it will help save lives. The remaining $7,000 will purchase additional medical supplies.
The event was held last month at the United Church of Christ on Fleming Road. When I arrived at about 12:30 p.m., the church parking lot was already full. A traffic jam quickly developed as cars started to search for parking on nearby side streets. A long line of eager supporters quickly formed and snaked across the parking lot. Unfortunately, the line moved slowly but most people were very patient despite the long wait. Despite the logistic problems, the day was a smashing success!
Grilling sashlik.Varenyky (pierogi)Nalesniki
The menu included: grilled kebabs (sashlik), beet soup (borscht), stuffed cabbage rolls (holubtsi), dumplings stuffed with potatoes (varenyky also called pierogis), cheese crepes (nalesniki), and many other tasty treats! The preparations began weeks earlier, and Nataliya and I helped bake pierogis and nalesniki. The nalesniki were filled with lemon flavored cottage cheese which was delicious! Numerous desserts were also available.
The event also included kids’ activities, a gift shop, and several different performances, including singers, dancers, and a musician with a bandura (Ukrainian instrument similar to a guitar)! It was very powerful and rewarding to see the community come together and make such a significant contribution to aid Ukraine. It also felt comforting to know that we could make a difference on an individual level to alleviate a tiny fraction of the suffering that Putin continues to inflict on innocent Ukrainians.
Indeed, Ukraine continues to suffer. But after nearly 3 months of fighting, Ukrainian forces recently launched a counterattack near Kharkiv, Nataliya’s hometown, that has pushed Russian forces all the way back to the border (nearly 30 miles) although some Russians remain to the east of the city. Russian troops attacked Kharkiv at the outset of the war but failed to capture the city and laid siege to it for nearly 3 months. The Russians never completely encircled the city either.
The successful Ukrainian counterattack shows they can still go on the offensive and retake significant territory. It also highlights the total incompetence and impotence of the Putin’s armed forces. By concentrating on eastern Ukraine, Putin seems to have left himself vulnerable on his flanks. Putin has only captured 2 major cities since the war began: Melitopol (150,000 pop.) and Kherson (289,000 pop.) , as well as the ruins of Mariupol (formerly 446,00 pop.). These meager victories have come at a staggering cost of up to 25,000 Russian and separatist casualties (killed, wounded, and missing).
Nataliya’s parents live in a village on the western outskirts of Kharkiv and say the Ukrainian counterattack has pushed the frontlines away from them. Their village had been subject to sporadic rocket or artillery fire when the Russians were closer, but now they only hear explosions in the distance. Previously, it had been very difficult to obtain food or money, but the bank and a few shops have reopened. We chatted over FaceTime recently and Iryna, Nataliya’s mother, said things were much better now.
Nataliya’s brother Michael fled Kharkiv a few weeks before the Ukrainian counteroffensive. He drove his wife, who has never lived anywhere outside of Kharkiv, and 5-year-old son to a small town in western Ukraine where they rented a condo. Nataliya and I were relieved, even though we thought they should have left long before then! Although the Ukrainian counterattack helped relieve some of the pressure on Kharkiv, officials have warned residents not to return. Nevertheless, as many as 2,000 residents a day are returning.
After nearly 3 months of continuous bombardment, the city has been devastated. Kharkiv is Cincinnati’s sister city and was Ukraine’s 2nd largest city. Once known for its museums and architectural heritage, more than 1,500 buildings have been damaged or destroyed, including dozens of historic landmarks. More than 600 local residents were killed by the barrage of Russian rockets and artillery, including indiscriminate cluster munitions (with which targeting cities is illegal and immoral).
It will take years to rebuild, and the Ukrainians will never forget or forgive the atrocities that have been committed. Restitution can begin by seizing Russian assets and forfeiting them to Ukraine (even though it may only amount to a drop in the bucket). Slava Ukraini!
Many other residents have not been so lucky: dozens of people are killed every day by the barrage of Russian missiles, bombs, and rockets that bombard the city. You can see comparative satellite photos of the before and after damage here. You can drag the slider left or right (link).
Only 25 miles from the Russian border, the Ukrainian defenders have delivered a humiliating defeat to Putin by holding on to Kharkiv for a month. Russian forces have only partially encircled the city which continues to hold out. The Russians launched an attack on Kharkiv at the outset of the war, but, after the initial attack failed, the Russians have decided to mercilessly pound the city with rockets and artillery. Hundreds of buildings have been destroyed (link). But, it seems unlikely the city will fall anytime soon, since Ukrainian troops claim to have recaptured a village outside Kharkiv.
To escape the shelling, many residents have sought shelter in the city’s subway system, and musicians have performed concerts to maintain morale (link). Denys Karachevtsev, a musician in Kharkiv, encapsulated the spirit of resistance when he performed Bach’s Cello Suite No. 5 amongst the ruined streets of the city (link). Contrast it with this beautiful 4k quality walking tour amongst the parks and landmarks of the city before the war. Imagine these were the streets of Cincinnati or Covington!
The Not-So Bad – Nataliya’s Family:
Despite a month of nearly continuous bombardment, Nataliya’s family is still in good health. While we are angry, tired, and tired of being angry, I can barely imagine what a month of terror and privation has felt like. Her parents and brother’s family decided to stay in Kharkiv when Putin launched the invasion a month ago. Nataliya’s brother Michael’s family has stayed in their apartment on the 7th floor of an urban apartment building. They lost water pressure for a few days, so Michael had to carry buckets of water up 7 flights of stairs.
Despite the frequent bombardment, some semblance of normal life continues amidst all the death and destruction. Michael continues to work as an applications developer for Oracle despite sitting in the middle of a war zone. We spoke briefly on via video chat recently and his energetic 5-year-old son Leo was cheerfully running around the apartment and screeching! Michael said people still sit on benches and walk in a nearby park when it seems safe.
“At some point things look like business as usual,” Michael wrote in text. “And sometimes it is not so much. A la guerre comme a la guerre” (French translation: “war is war”).
Nataliya’s parents live in a small village called Pisochyn on the edge of Kharkiv. Food has become scarcer as the fighting as continued. The nearest market is about 20-minute bike ride away and only accepts cash, but the bank only allows people to withdraw a modest amount of money each time. The lines at the bank and market can be 2 hours long.
“We hold on and believe in victory and peace,” her mother Iryna wrote in a text message.
Cincinnati has organized and will continue to host additional fundraisers and protests in support of Kharkiv, which has been our sister city for more than 30 years. This wonderful 18-minute video highlights the close personal connections between the cities (link).
Nataliya and I are eager to do as much as we can to support Ukraine. It may not seem like much, but we have to do what we can! Immanuel Presbyterian Church in Clifton hosted a beautiful concert with emotional performances by Ukrainian musicians. All Saints Episcopal Church will host another benefit concert on April 23rd at 4p.m. (link). Another protest is planned in Blue Ash soon, and a large fundraiser is tentatively scheduled for April 10. Several dozen volunteers will cook and bake traditional Ukrainian dishes and send the proceeds to Ukraine. I’ll post more details on Facebook as they become certain.
I work at Humana, and many of my colleagues are finding innovative ways to support Ukraine as well. At least one colleague has taken time off work to travel to Poland to assist some of the nearly 4 million refugees who have fled the fighting. We are also asking Humana to divest from any Russian assets or investments the company may have (if applicable).
America has finally agreed to accept 100,000 refugees and continues to send weapons and supplies. President Biden is also considering additional sanctions and has officially accused Putin of committing war crimes. However, we need to keep up the pressure in both DC and Cincinnati until the war stops! Putin must be punished and pay reparations for all the death and destruction he has wrought!
Claire Trevor (as Pat Regan) and Marsha Hunt (as Ann Martin) are the real stars in Raw Deal while Dennis O’Keefe (as Joe Sullivan) is overshadowed by the two more dynamic characters. In addition, John Alton’s cinematography is very effective as well.
In my first paper, I lamented the fact that film noir tends to have a very misogynistic attitude towards female characters, and I was delighted to watch a film from the perspective of Pat (who provides the voice-over narration). Furthermore, both Claire Trevor and Marsha Hunt create much deeper characters than Dennis O’Keefe, who is relegated to the typical film noir tough guy role. On the surface, the plot is about Joe’s attempt to escape from prison, kill his betrayer, and flee to South America. However, the real tension is the love triangle between Joe and his two female accomplices/companions. The tension between the women is apparent even before the plot structure is clearly established. Pat throws an icy glare at Anne as she leaves the visiting room at the state prison where Joe is incarcerated, indicating her jealousy of the other woman who dared to visit her man.
After Anne is unwillingly drawn into the escape plan, the trio hit the road in her car. All three of them sit in a row in the front seats; however, the shot helps establish the nature of the relationship. Joe sits behind the steering wheel and is the closest to the camera. Anne sits next to him in the middle seat while Pat is furthest away. This reinforces Pat’s emotional and physical separation from Joe who has never professed his love to Pat (as we discover later). It also places Anne closer to Joe (physically and emotionally) and situates her as an obstacle in between the supposed couple. In addition, the characters are portrayed in descending order, with Joe appearing to be taller and more important than the women with Pat seeming to be the smallest and least powerful.
Pat, Anne, and Joe (left to right) from Senses of Cinema.
Anne is the most dynamic and intriguing character because she experiences the most development. Initially acting as Joe’s good conscious, Anne urges him to turn himself in soon after escaping. Later, Anne, also urges Joe to let the other fugitive hide in the tavern with them and warns Joe that he could share the killer’s same bloody fate (effective foreshadowing). However, her love for Joe gradually corrupts her and she begins to break the law on his behalf. Anne lies to the park ranger who intrudes on their campsite, and Anne even picks up a gun to shoot the hoodlum Fantail (played by John Ireland) during his fistfight with Joe at Grimshaw’s. Shocked by her own capacity for violence, Anne drops the gun and runs distraughtly down the beach.
Pat initially performs an opposing role as Joe’s “devilish” conscious in contrast to Anne’s “angelic” conscious. Pat unsuccessfully encourages Joe to leave the fugitive killer outside the tavern to save himself. While Anne is corrupted during the movie, Pat is partially reformed on the other hand. Pat is tempted to call the police in order to save Joe from being killed in his confrontation with Rick. In the end, she gives in to her own conscious and tells Joe that Rick has captured Anne.
The cinematography of the sequence while Pat wrestles with her own guilty conscious aboard the ship is also quite effective. Shown in profile in a dark cabin, Pat appears to be staring at the clock on the wall even though it’s off to the left side and probably at the edge of her peripheral vision. The light is placed so that the edges of the light shaft line up with the top of her forehead and the bottom of her chin so that it appears the light is shooting straight from her face on to the clock. The light appears to connect her mind to the clock. But the shadow cast by the clock also creates a black shaft (similar to the barrel of a gun) that looms menacingly at her face. Lost in contemplation, the dialogue mostly consists of Joe speaking while some eerie music wafts through the background. A subsequent shot shows Pat’s face reflected in the glass cover of the clock, as time grinds on inevitably. Each second seems like torture, which forces Pat to admit to herself that she would never be happy if she lives in a sham marriage with Joe while he still really loves Anne. She reveals that Rick has captured Anne, and Joe rushes off to his fatal confrontation with Rick.
However, the final scene felt a little forced as Pat miraculously appears at the doorstep of Rick’s liar just as Joe dies in Anne’s embrace. It’s unclear how the police arrested her or why they brought her to Rick’s hideout. It feels like an artificial excuse to reunite the trio for the tragic conclusion.
On the other hand, Joe has very little character growth. In a few disparate pieces of dialogue, Joe and Anne reveal that, as a child, he had once heroically rescued people from a fire. Later he sold the medal he received to buy food which helps explain how he became a hardened criminal. Otherwise, Joe is so stoic to the point that he’s never told Pat he loves her (if indeed he did). For example, he tells Pat she wouldn’t understand why he must mete out revenge on Rick.
Overall, it was very rewarding to see a film noir from a female perspective. It provides a fresh point of view that is a relief from the incessant misogyny of most other examples of film noir. The cinematography helped convey the power dynamics of the love triangle and highlighted various elements of character development.
References
Raw Deal. Directed by Anthony Mann. Performances by Dennis O’Keefe, Claire Trevor, and Marsha Hunt. Eagle Lion Films, 1948.
I am taking another film class this semester about American film noir. I wrote essays about two of the films we watched. The first is Scarlet Street (1945) which is based on the 1930 French novel La Chienne (the bitch). A 1931 French film preceded the American adaptation which was directed by Fritz Lang, one of my favorite directors! You can watch Scarlet Street free on Youtube here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MNRSxu22NxU
Essay:
As discussed in the first chapter of Foster Hirsch’s The Dark Side of the Screen, film noir conveys a generally misogynistic attitude towards women who are portrayed as duplicitous and seductive. Fritz Lang’s Scarlet Street (1945) is certainly no exception.
Fritz Lang, from Mubi.com
Kitty (Joan Bennett) is a typical femme fatale in Scarlet Street. She manipulates a gullible cashier, Chris Cross (Edward G. Robinson), into stealing from his wife and his employer under false pretense of love. In addition, Kitty acts in a generally low-class and vulgar manner. For example, she reveals her ignorance of art by mispronouncing Cezanne’s name when discussing art with Chris. Furthermore, she is drunken and uncouth. Kitty stays out late drinking with lover Johnny Prince (Dan Duryea) and sleeps in until her friend Milly arrives the next morning to make amends. In the scene when Johnny convinces Kitty to extort Chris, Kitty also rudely spits out a piece of food. This vulgarity is followed by a telling closeup of a sink full of dirty dishes reveals that she is also a poor housekeeper (which would be seen a major failing for a woman in 1945). Kitty was unable or unwilling to maintain regular employment as a model (thus earning the nickname “Lazy Legs”). All of these elements would have persuaded viewers at the time that Kitty was a “failure” as a woman on several fronts.
From IMDB.com
Kitty also degrades herself by staying with Johnny who slaps Kitty on several occasions and takes money from her. He also insults Kitty, and her friend Milly (Margaret Lindsay) points out that Johnny has made Kitty into “a tramp.” Yet, despite these insults, Kitty clings to Johnny and doesn’t reject him in favor of Chris once Homer Higgins returns. The viewer would understand that Kitty is beyond redemption and refuses to even save herself. Kitty uses her sexuality to corrupt Chris. Even Johnny suggests that she is too sexual when he complained that she thought about nothing else. He told her to call a janitor if she needed more “heat” in the apartment since he could not accommodate Kitty’s lust!
Kitty and Chris from the Harvard Film Archive.
Hirsch attributes the misogyny of noir films to several factors, including anxiety about the social change and upheaval resulting from World War II. During the war, 6 million American women entered the workforce to replace men who had gone over seas to fight the Axis powers (“Watch Terrified Men”). Women became more independent which threatened the traditional patriarchal social structure. Released just after World War II had ended in 1945, Scarlet Street vividly captures the contemporary male anxiety. Although most female employees were fired so that returning veterans could reclaim their jobs, many men were clearly concerned that they had already let the cat out of the bag. Kitty, a modern/liberated woman, was the perfect scapegoat.
The other main female character, Adele Cross (Rosalind Ivan), is shown in a very negative light as well. Adele is an overbearing woman who dominates Chris to such a degree that their domestic rolls are “crisscrossed.” Adele berates Chris to do the dishes (which would typically be the wife’s job in 1945) until he meekly complies. Chris also wears a frilly feminine apron while preparing dinner. Ironically, Adele’s favorite radio program is called the “Happy Household Hour,” while the Cross’ domestic relationship is clearly upside down. Adele also belittles Chris’ art and forces him to take his canvases out of the apartment (and inadvertently pushes him into Kitty’s seductive embrace). Adele reveals that Chris was only able to propose marriage to her because she “put the words” in his mouth. Thus, even in the domestic sphere Chris allows himself to be dominated and bullied. Hapless Chris can’t even find refuge in the supposedly safe realm of his own household, where the man was supposed to rule as patriarch. The domineering Adele has usurped his role, thus reflecting the contemporary anxiety that men felt like they were under assault on all fronts.
Kitty’s friend, Milly (Margaret Lindsay), was the only positive or neutral female character in Scarlet Street. Milly acts as the voice of reason by trying to explain to Kitty how Johnny has mistreated her. When the two women argue, she is the first to make amends by offering a bottle of Scotch. Milly also warns Kitty that Johnny has made threats and is on his way back to her apartment to hurt her at the end of the film. Milly acts as a token example that not all women are bullies or seducers. Milly is also gainfully employed in contrast to Kitty. However, her role is very minimal, and she only offers a baseline for acceptable behavior. Milly’s modest behavior contrasts with Adele and Kitty only serves to make them more monstrous. Scarlet Street tells female viewers that they should toe the line and challenge men no further than Milly’s verbal sparring with Johnny.
Scarlet Street thus offers fertile ground for exploring the film noir trend towards misogyny. Shot during the later stages of World War II and released shortly after the fighting stopped, Scarlet Street affirms Hirsch’s thesis that film noir reflected male anxiety about potential gender roles becoming permanently “crisscrossed” as a result of the wartime labor crisis. Kitty was presented as a seductive woman who failed to uphold traditional gender expectations. Adele emasculated her husband and usurped the traditional patriarchal role as head of the household. Similar trends are evident in other films we’ve viewed so far, such as the predatory femme fatale Phyllis (Barbara Stanwyck) in Double Indemnity (1944) and the duplicitous Helen/Velma (Claire Trevor) in Murder, My Sweet (1944).
References
Hirsch, Foster. The Dark Side of the Screen: Film Noir. Cambridge: Da Capo Press, 1981.
Freelance Writer Paul Glasser 