Since being diagnosed with cancer, I’ve tried to be open-minded when it comes to new experiences. As a result, I agreed to participate in the 10km “Moonbow” trail run in southern Kentucky last year with Nataliya. She had originally planned to go with several friends, but one dropped out, so I filled in.

I’ve never gone trail running and certainly not for 10km. The longest street race I had ever run was a 5k and that was more than a decade ago! I did not prepare at all for the race, although I am in pretty good shape since I’ve been doing CrossFit for several years now. In the summer, workouts usually incorporate running but no more than 1 or 2 miles – only a fraction of the 6-mile trail run!

The trail race was at Cumberland Falls in southern Kentucky and we drove down the day before. We stopped in Lexington for lunch at Good Foods Cooperative. I lived right around the corner from the cooperative while finishing my master’s degree at the University of Kentucky. I loved eating and shopping there, so it was a nice treat to return to my old stomping grounds (gastronomically as well as literally). Nataliya had also fallen in love with their little café while studying at UK as well (although not at the same time as me)! We ran across the street to A Plus Comics as well for a second, which was another of my former hangouts. Before hitting the road again, we took a short hike at Raven Run Sanctuary, which has a great view of the Kentucky River. Eventually, we arrived at our hotel, the Fairfield Inn, in Corbin and had dinner at Sonny’s BBQ. Our hotel was about 30 minutes from the park which has cottages to rent but requires a 2-night minimum stay on the weekends. There’s certainly enough trails and other activities to warrant a full weekend (if not more), but we had to be back home by Saturday night unfortunately.

The race began at 8 a.m. at the visitor’s center at Cumberland Falls State Resort Park. The course followed right along the Cumberland River for the first 2 miles and then cut overland for 2 more miles. The final 2-mile leg brought us back along the river. You can see a video map of the course here. There were also 30km and 50km versions available for experienced trail runners. It was a bright day, so I wore my prescription sunglasses which turned out to be a mistake. The trail was well shaded, so I didn’t need them. The trail was quite rocky, and I frequently slipped and tripped over stones and tree roots even though we were not going very fast. My prescription sunglasses made it even harder to see what I was doing! I marveled at the true trail runners who sped ahead and finished the course in about 90 minutes. The river cooled us during the first leg which was fortunate since it was still very hot for September. We began a lengthy uphill section once the trail turned inland, and we lost the river’s cooling effect.

The river and the countryside were quite beautiful and peaceful, although the river came to its crashing crescendo at the finish line. I enjoyed the cool clean air along the river, and the earthy scents. I had visited the Cumberland Falls more than a decade ago when I had lived in Kentucky, and it reminded me that I don’t get out into nature nearly as often these days. The race was also an excellent opportunity to break in my new hiking boots and prepare for our upcoming lengthy journeys in Las Vegas. My legs were quite sore by the end of the race!

We eventually finished at just under 2 hours and 40 minutes, although Nataliya had certainly hoped for better. I thought she might leave me behind, but I kept up well. In reality, we mostly just hiked and only ran on a few brief sections of relatively smooth ground. Nevertheless, I enjoyed the challenge and the natural splendor. I certainly would give it another shot! Nataliya suggested trying the 10km version of the “Hot Hot 100” race this year, but I demurred. The course has more than 1,400 feet of elevation gain and descent, so it’s a lot of running up and down hills. It’s also in August which would be even hotter (hence the name), so I suggested we try to improve our performance at the Moonbow race this year instead.

After the race, we took some pictures at the iconic Cumberland falls before heading home. The water crashes down 68 feet which was earned it the nickname of the “Little Niagara” or the “Niagara of the South.” The Cumberland Falls is also the only location in the Western Hemisphere where you can view a Moonbow, which is a produced by moonlight rather than sunlight. The waterfall’s wide gorge and high walls create the perfect conditions for this unique phenomenon. See a video about it here. The Kentucky state park system publishes a calendar with the ideal dates for viewing the Moonbow. Plus, it’s only 3 hours from Cincinnati, so it’s an ideal destination! The only other place you can see a Moonbow is at Victoria Falls in Africa (although the KET video claims the phenomenon no longer exists due to an earthquake).

On Tuesday, we went up to Valley of Fire State Park ($10 per day) which is about an hour north of Las Vegas. It’s small enough that you can easily visit all the major attractions in a day if you arrive early enough. We visited about 75% of the park in 5 or 6 hours. We stopped at the beehives first, which looked exactly as you would expect. The park is best known for the red Aztec sandstone that contrasts with the brown hills that surround it.

Next, we drove up to the White Domes Trail (1.1 miles), which featured some remnants of a movie set for the 1965 western film “The Professionals.” As you can see, most of the Mexican hacienda has crumbled since then. Valley of Fire has also been featured in several films and television shows. In fact, we drove through a photo shoot on our way out of the park.

Overall, the White Domes Trail was an easy hike without lots of other people (remember most of our hikes were on weekdays during the off season). The trail featured some interesting erosion patterns and a few sandy parts. You walk through several narrow slot canyons, and the trail is filled with an array of colors, including orange, yellow, pink and beige. The colorful rainbow of stones used to construct a stairway is one of my favorite photos from the trip since it shows off the natural beauty so well. Nataliya and I joked that my phone would be filled with 500 pictures of rocks (the estimate was not far off!) Some of the best pictures are included in this article, but they still don’t do justice to what we actually experienced!

From there, we went to the Fire Wave Trail (1.5 miles) next which is one of the most popular attractions in the park. You should be aware that the trail is actually on the other side of the road from the parking lot. Wind and water have eroded the layer rock formation to create distinctive waves. Here, much of the red Aztec sandstone is covered in a black substance called “desert varnish,” which contains unusually high concentrations of the rare metallic substance manganese. The manganese-rich varnish is formed from dust, wind and morning dew. Sometimes, iron-rich orange varnish also forms. The trail is marked with small cairns and guide posts. However, the trail disappeared as we approached the iconic Fire Wave formation, and we ended up wandering around on top of it (which we were expressly warned against!). Several other hikers were also unsure exactly which part of the rock was the Fire Wave either, but some photographers arrived and pointed it out. I surveyed the rugged, savage landscape as we paused to eat our sandwiches.

Next, we continued to Mouse’s Tank (0.75 miles) next. A tank is a natural rock basin filled with water, and the trail is named for a native Paiute renegade who hid in the area in the 1890s. The rocks along the trail were covered in dark desert varnish, which created a natural canvas for a menagerie of petroglyphs. The trail was an easy hike but had a few sandy parts.

We wrapped up our blitz through the Valley of Fire with a quick stop at the Elephant Rock (which was not very impressive). Other notable rock formations in the park include Atlatl Rock, Balancing Rock and the Seven Sisters. We also pulled over near the Fire Canyon Trail and took a walk through the seemingly empty landscape. Upon closer inspection, tracks in the sand revealed the area was filled with unseen wildlife traffic, including birds and snakes. It was a practically a critter highway! We didn’t have much sunlight left, so Nataliya and I decided to drive 20 minutes north and visit the Lost City Museum ($5 admission) before sunset.

The Lost City refers to the ruins in the area left behind by Native American people known as the Ancestral Pueblo. The title is misleading because the settlement was a collection of homes that were more akin to a village rather than a true city. The ruins were excavated in the 1920s and 30s. The Civilian Conservation Corps built the Lost City Museum in 1935 to house these artifacts. The museum features a small collection of baskets and pottery as well as a recreation of the excavation site. There are also several reconstructed pueblos and a pit house. There’s also a small, but very interesting, exhibit about the ecological history of the region. For the modest price, the Lost City Museum is worth a visit if you are at the Valley of Fire. The drive back to Vegas was almost pitch dark. The only similar experience I recall is driving through rural Indiana for late-night newspaper assignments as my first journalism job in 2004. Then, suddenly, the bright lights of Vegas erupted as we crossed over a ridge. It was more like sunset than late at night. The Sky Beam from the Luxor Hotel shot up towards the sky like a laser. Apparently it is visible up to 275 miles away.

We made our first trip to the Strip on Wednesday only because it was raining too much for us to hike. We stopped at the Palace Station first and were immediately struck by the stench of cigarette smoke. Public smoking has been restricted for so long back in Ohio that it had not occurred to me that Las Vegas casinos would permit it. The casinos were gaudy and had few customers. I wish more people would leave the Strip and visit the amazing parks nearby! If they don’t, it’s a missed opportunity.

We were primarily interested in the Cinebarre theater where we saw Knives Out. The theater offers $9 tickets all day ($4 additional for 3D) but that’s not a great price for a matinee. Nevertheless, the theater was clean and comfortable. We played the slot machines downstairs for a few minutes after the movie. Nataliya was the big winner – $34! I joked that even my dreams are modest, because I dreamt before leaving Cincinnati that I won a mere $1,500. Nataliya had much bigger dreams to the tune of $200,000! In the end, Nataliya probably broke even, and I only spent about $50 or $60 on the slots.

We had lunch at In-n-Out Burger for the first time. I ordered of the “secret” menu, including a Neapolitan shake (chocolate, vanilla and strawberry) and a tasty animal style burger (the patty is cooked with mustard). It reminded me of the burgers I had at Johnny Rockets as a kid, with toasted buns and lots of crisp pickles. The Neapolitan shake was unremarkable since the strawberry flavor was lost amongst the vanilla and chocolate.

Next, we made our way to the Bellagio which was much more decadent than the Palace Station. The staff were in the process of erecting the Christmas display. We watched one of the choreographed fountain shows with lights and music which was quite impressive. The fountains usually erupt every 30 minutes, but you should check the schedule to make sure.

Here’s a link to my brief video clip of the fountains: https://youtu.be/QFd6nnoof6Y

Then, we went across the street to Paris Las Vegas. The façade was a reasonable copy of Parisian architecture but was also covered in the stench of cigarette smoke. We stopped at Le Creperie for a quick snack – a lemon and blueberry crepe. It was quite sweet and lot of food given the price (approx. $12). I enjoyed a game called Aftershocks which would buzz, shake and permit extra spins. However, I still lost a couple bucks and, in general, I found gambling not very fun or entertaining.

We finished up the night at Strat (formerly Stratosphere) where we had dinner and saw a show. We ate at McCall’s Heartland Grill and both had fish – mahi mahi and salmon. Both were tasty and Nataliya enjoyed a cherry drop martini too. I had no interest in visiting the rotating bar or the terrifying amusement park on the top of the tower, but my barber in Cincinnati recommended it. Merely watching  this video makes me start to sweat.

I had originally planned to see several shows in Vegas, including the magical duo Penn & Teller and at least one Cirque du Soleil show. However, I decided against buying tickets ahead of time in order to avoid over-committing myself, especially after several days of hiking. If I felt up to it, I decided I would buy rush tickets the night of a show. Nataliya was on a tight budget, but I was less concerned with price since we might not be in Vegas again any time soon.

In the end, we went to Celestia at Strat (starting at $29), which was much more affordable than Cirque (varies $80-$100). We opted for cheap seats off to the side, which turned out to be a great deal. However, we had to pick our tickets up at the box office, and it was entirely unclear which desk or which line was the right one to be in. Nevertheless, we eventually got our tickets. Attendance was sparse on a Wednesday night, so the ushers reseated us in prime seats for free.

The show felt a lot like a Cirque production and occurred in a 30,000 square foot tent outside the Strat tower. The 90-minute show features several exciting acts, including a Wheel of Death as well as acrobatics, contortionists, aerialists, and a dagger throwing act. As the name indicates, the show had an extraterrestrial theme and sci-fi music (which was too loud). The bumbling clown protagonists were entertaining, Nataliya was terrified by the Wheel of Death!

Here’s a short promo teaser for Celestia: https://youtu.be/7zZAQALwjgY

We saved Red Rock Canyon ($15 per day) for our final blitz on Thursday. Red Rock is only 30 minutes from Vegas and is one of the most popular parks (for good reason). The park is named for the iconic red Aztec Sandstone which occurs when iron in the rock oxidizes. The park is organized around a one-way 13-mile scenic loop. You can stop at any of the 26 hiking trails along the way.

Unfortunately, we only had a few hours in the morning to explore since our flight back to Cincinnati left in the afternoon. On the other hand, that gives us plenty of excuses to come back! We stopped at the visitor center to get some advice from a knowledgeable volunteer and picked up a few gifts at the shop.

We hiked a short part of the Calico Hills trail which gives you a close-up view of the distinctive geology of the Red Rock Canyon. Back on the road, we passed a few visitors touring on Segway scooters. The road rises about 1,000 feet to the High Point scenic overlook. We paused for a moment to take in the awesome sight, and I was finally at ease after adjusting to the wide-open horizons (just in time to leave). At this point, I was finally at ease in wide-open spaces. I prefer to savor the moment while Nataliya is eager to move on. The trip was also a great milestone in my relationship with Nataliya. It was the most time we had ever spent together (nearly a week). Nataliya was very supportive and understanding when I was a little anxious at the start of our adventure. We worked well together and found ways to compromise between our different budget goals. Finally, Nataliya and I had originally intended to go see a comedy show instead of Celestia, but I lost our tickets! She was only slightly mad at me, even after an embarrassing delay at the car rental desk at the airport…

We stopped for lunch at the Willow Spring picnic area and took a short hike to another petroglyph display. The trail to the petroglpyhs was not clearly marked and the petroglpyhs were quite faint. However, it was neat to see the hand-shaped images, which opened a portal back into history.

We tried to eat a quiet packed lunch in the picnic area, but an inconsiderate jerk insisted on flying a drone overhead even though it is prohibited. It felt like the operator was intentionally annoying people by flying low and buzzing anyone he could find. I took great relish when the drone plummeted to the road and crashed with a satisfying crunch of broken plastic.

Out of time – we had to catch our flight back to Cincinnati. I’ve always had a passing interest in North Africa. Perhaps I’ll see the rest of Tatooine (filmed in Tunisia) in a year or two if the terrorism situation in the region improves.

This was our last big trip for the year. We had plans for 2020, but COVID-19 has interrupted them. That has left Las Vegas as the most memorable trip in 2019. I feel very lucky to have been so fortunate to go, especially with Nataliya, and would love to go back. I was inspired after my uncle David and aunt Myra visited a few years ago and shared all of their photos. I hope this article encourages someone the next time they visit Vegas to escape the smoky casinos for at least a few hours (or hopefully much longer)! I might never have returned to France (like I did in 2018) or taken the initiative to visit Las Vegas without a cancer diagnosis hanging over my head. It has encouraged me to seize the moment, although perhaps I should have let my fears get the better of me at the Red Cathedral…

In “A New Hope,” R2-D2 is captured on the desert planet Tatooine by Jawas in a region called the Jundland Wastes. The scene was filmed in the Golden Canyon in Death Valley in 1976, and the park rangers’ children played the Jawas!I never thought I would be in the same spot where parts of Star Wars had been filmed, but now that famous phrase “A long time ago in a galaxy far, far away…” was not just words on a screen any more. Death Valley was the first stop on our trip out west in December 2019, although Las Vegas was our primary destination.

Death Valley was only 2 hours from Las Vegas, and we got up early Sunday morning since we were still on eastern time. We drove through the Spring Mountains west of Las Vegas and marveled at the stark wilderness: only rocks, shrubs and snow as far as I could see! Once we left Las Vegas, there was literally no sign of civilization, aside from the highway and power lines, until we reached Pahrump an hour later. We only passed through one other tiny village before we reached Death Valley ($30 for a 7-day pass).

Zabriskie Point was actually our first stop in the park, and it felt like we were on a different planet (which is why so many science-fiction movies have been shot there, including my beloved Star Wars!). The sky was the widest I’d seen since my last trip out west about 20 years ago, and the valley was unnervingly flat. It was a psychological shock and it took me at least a day to adjust. You can see for miles in Death Valley which is certainly not the case in Cincinnati or any of the other places I’ve visited.

After arriving at Zabriskie Point,we got out of the car, and suddenly I felt horribly exposed. My hands were sweaty, and I felt like I could be swept off the ground at any moment. The 2004 film “the Forgotten” seems to have made an impression on me, in particular the malevolent force that hurled people into the atmosphere whenever the heroine got close to finding out the truth.

Although unsettling, Death Valley was incredibly beautiful as well. The distant mountains looked like a painting or a movie studio backdrop. Nataliya and I walked up to the top of Zabriskie Point and to get a view of it all. The terrain looked like giants had created furrows by dragging their fingers across it. An array of colors also rippled through the mountains from pale sandy yellow to dark earthy brown – sometimes juxtaposed next to each other. This was only our first stop and we were already flabbergasted! We got back in the car and I immediately felt more at ease.

We drove down to the visitor’s center where we asked for some suggested trails and learned that a ranger would soon be leading a geology hike in the Golden Canyon. We hoped back in the car and a few minutes later we were at Golden Canyon. This was the location where the R2-D2 seen was shot with the Jawas in the Jundland Wastes.

The ranger who led the hike was very engaging and knowledgeable. He explained all about the geology and history of Death Valley as well as the tremendous forces and time span that ultimately created the impressive landscape. The ranger said the powerful process and beautiful results made him feel humble and frightened – I agree! I reflected on the immense scope of the natural world and how insignificant our relatively brief human lives seem in comparison to planet Earth. Never mind the rest the of the universe! Human history is only a tiny blip on the cosmic scale.

On a side note, there’s a very interesting approach towards teaching history called the Big History method, where the class starts with the Big Bang and finishes with modern history. It’s an excellent way to create a multi-disciplinary class that covers geology, biology, history and chemistry, among other topics. And since I’m not a Renaissance man, the best approach is to invite a bunch of guest lecturers to address the various specialties (which coincidentally means less work for me).

It was also thrilling to walk in the same canyon where R2-D2 had once rolled. I have been a Star Wars fan nearly my entire life. The educational hike only went about half a mile into Golden Canyon, and we decided to continue to the landmark known as the Red Cathedral. The trail is also part of a longer loop that can add on another 3 to 8 miles depending on how far you want to go.

The trail was moderately busy and not very strenuous, until the very end, which had a steep incline up to the top of the Red Cathedral. The overlook was completely exposed, and I was turned back twice when anxiety overtook me. I eventually overcame my fear. My 3 years of continuous cancer treatment have taught me not to take anything for granted. I intend to return to Death Valley sooner rather than later, but I realized I might never have the chance (for numerous unforeseen reasons). I did not want to let my fear get the better of me, so I scrambled up to the top. However, I was so anxious that I could only take in the awesome sight through the viewfinder of my smartphone camera. I scrambled back down the hill in a crab-walk. Nataliya had been waiting for me and climbed up when I got back. We then returned to the trail-head together.

Next, we stopped at Badwater Salt Flats which is the lowest point in North America (282 feet below sea level). The salt flats were still slightly unnerving since I could see further in any direction than I could remember before. The Badwater trail is very flat, but it’s possible to trip over salty protrusions. The salt flats actually look more like a frozen lake with frosty wave crests. The salt flats were a popular destination and only a few parking spots available.

Before heading back to Nevada, we made a slight detour to on to the Artist’s Palette driving tour. This one-way loop takes about 25 minutes and includes several scenic overlooks, but we did not stop (which I slightly regret). The drive does show off some colorful terrain, but it’s not as vibrant as some of the photos I saw online. Perhaps the overlooks had the best views or maybe the sunlight wasn’t favorable. In a day, we saw only a tiny sliver of what Death Valley has to offer, and there are numerous natural wonders to visit next time. I balked when Nataliya said she would come back in 10 years – I think delaying more than a couple years would be travesty!

We might have been able to squeeze in one more quick stop, but we left while we still had sunlight since we had a 2 hour drive back to our resort, the Desert Paradise. It was quiet, affordable and not far from either the Strip or the airport. Most nights we cooked dinner in the condo and packed lunches for the trail. Nataliya is a much more budget conscious traveler than I am.

Apparently, I over did it by forcing myself to ascend the Red Cathedral, because I suffered from a few nightmares Sunday night that interrupted my sleep. I awoke suddenly several times after imaging being stuck exposed and terrified on the slope of the Red Cathedral. I only fell asleep after consciously refocusing my thoughts on the hike I eagerly anticipated Monday morning. I vowed not to push myself too hard in the future.

The next morning, we drove to the nearby suburb of Henderson for a walk back in time. But first, we drove through seemingly endless subdivisions of homes painted in the same limited palette of sandy yellow or brown. A few Italian villas were bizarrely out of place, as were the palm trees that seemed confused and lost.

After 25 minutes of mind-numbing architectural repetition, we arrived at Sloan Canyon National Conservation Area (no fee). Since it was early Monday morning, we had the entire place almost to ourselves – only one other car was parked in the lot. This was one of my most anticipated hikes and it did not disappoint. Only 25 minutes from the Strip, Sloan is often overshadowed by more popular parks such as Red Rock Canyon.

Petroglyph Trail was one of my favorite hikes from the entire trip. It reminded me of an Indiana Jones movie or a Lord of the Rings adventure. We started off on an alternate route called the Cowboy Trail and then came back on the main path. However, the Cowboy Trail was a little easier than the regular route, because we were able to simply hop down from a rock ledge instead of trying to scramble up it if we had gone the “correct” route.

The Cowboy Trail provides a scenic view of Las Vegas (plus the first of many opportunities to test out the panorama function on my smartphone camera) and was very quiet, save for the constant distant rumble from the airport. Only a few birds even chirped at us during the hike, although distant gunfire echoed through the hills as we were leaving. Petroglyph Canyon lives up to its name with hundreds of images, mainly facing towards the interior of the mountains. Petroglyphs are created by scraping or carving into the surface of a rock, as opposed to pictoglyphs which are painted onto rocks.

Native Americans carved the petroglyphs in Sloan Canyon at least 800 years ago. The canyon has very little water so the artists must have only been passing through the area instead of permanent residents. Some of the more abstract images were more difficult to interpret since the alignment and perspective were undefined. We had no idea if we were looking at the image upside down or right side up! Mountain goats were a frequent subject, and they seemed to be very lively! Like the collection at the Cleveland Museum of Art, these simple works of art bridged the gap over centuries as Nataliya and I pondered the meaning of the petroglyphs.

Later, we found a booklet at a gift shop that offered possible interpretations of the images – some of which seem to convey very complex stories or concepts. Sloan is a hidden gem on the outskirts of Las Vegas that has somehow preserved an amazing treasure trove of cultural history. There are a several other trails in the Sloan Canyon park as well, and some of the area is open to cross-country hiking, cycling or horse-back riding.

Our next destination, the Lake Mead National Recreation Area ($25 for 7 days), wasn’t far away either. Lake Mead was created in 1935 when the Hoover Dam was finished. The massive recreation area has numerous hiking trails and other activities, including boating and fishing.

We decided to check out Hoover Dam next, but I stayed in the parking garage while Nataliya grabbed a couple photos. I wasn’t really that interested in seeing a giant dam, and I was chastened by my recent nightmares from Zabriskie Point. After seeing how deep the dam was, I decided not to stress myself out any more than necessary. Nataliya was not impressed and only stayed a few minutes.

We made one more stop at the Historic Railroad Trail at Lake Mead before heading back to the resort. The trail is very flat, easy and uncrowded. The railroad transported construction supplies to nearby Hoover Dam and was later converted into a hiking and biking path. There are five tunnels along the 7.5-mile trail. It provided a scenic view of the Lake and another opportunity to try out the panorama option on my smartphone camera. I was still little uneasy with the vast expanses that confronted me, but much less than on Sunday.

After dinner, we went to the Christmas display at the Ethel M chocolate factory. Located in Henderson, about 20 minutes from the strip, the Ethel M chocolate factory has a 3-acre botanical garden filled with 300 species of cacti and other desert succulents. The garden was decorated for Christmas with lots of colorful lights and was extremely crowded. We went inside to warm up with some hot chocolate. We also tried chocolate-coated marshmallows which were surprisingly good. Nataliya said it was the only time she felt the Christmas spirit even though the holiday was only a few weeks away. We saw a few Christmas trees but back home there was a plethora of inflatable holiday yard decorations and massive light displays. Even for a Monday, the Ethel M store was packed full of people. It’s definitely worth visiting – especially if you love chocolate! Be warned that my GPS had a hard time finding the exact location.

To be continued…

Only two weeks after my quick trip to NYC with Nataliya, I went on a solo trip to Cleveland for a concert, but that turned out to be the least interesting part of the trip.

I’ve been a fan of Sabaton, a Swedish power metal band, for about five years. They frequently tour the United States and Cleveland was the closest show this time around. The show was on a Sunday night so left late on Saturday and came back Monday.

I had planned to see a movie at the historic Cedar Lee theater (which opened in 1925), but I left Cincinnati later than I planned. I love our local independent cinemas, such as the Esquire, and wanted to see how Cleveland stacked up. I’ll add Cedar Lee to the list for next time. Visiting local theaters is a personal theme of mine. In 2018, I went to the Filmotheque in Paris which was one of my favorite moments and plan to stop at Le Grand Rex later this year. I also plan to visit the Metrograph next time I’m back in NYC.

After arriving in Cleveland, I did eat a pretty good Ethiopian meal at Zoma. I had the special lamb tibs with onion, rosemary, jalapeno and garlic. It was very flavor and had the right amount of spice. The lamb was a little tough but seemed more tender when I warmed up the leftovers later. The entrée included a huge amount of food, including an abundance of injera, the spongy flatbread that is an Ethiopian staple. However, the red lentils stole the show! Afterwards, I walked across the street to Mitchell’s Fine Chocolates to pick up a box of caramels for Nataliya.

I stayed at the Tudor Arms Hotel which was built in 1933 in the Gothic revival style. Originally, a private club occupied the 12-story building. After an extensive renovation in 2011, it reopened as a hotel. Upon arrival, the clerk offered me a complimentary warm cookie which was very tasty and a nice touch. The rooms were spacious, clean and modern. The hotel retained much of its historic charm as well. Apparently, tours of the entire facility are available, but I didn’t have the opportunity. I will certainly stay again and plan to avail myself next time.

On Sunday night, I asked to switch rooms to a lower floor so I would sleep easier at night due to my acrophobia (fear of heights) and the staff were very accommodating. My only complaint was the morning breakfast buffet which was not worth the price. The French toast, sausage and eggs were all mediocre. On Monday morning, I opted for breakfast at Presti’s Bakery instead which was a delicious alternative!

Sunday was a fun-filled day. The Cleveland Museum of Art was my first stop. Admission is free, but I was a little surprised by the $16 daily parking fee (although I happily paid).

An additional ticket ($15) was required for a special Michelangelo exhibit. I was excited to see more than 20 drawings by the artist which were on display for the first time in the US. The exhibit presented an overview of Michelangelo and his work. I found the section on stencils, brushes and inks very interesting. It was fascinating to see his crosshatching technique up close, but after a while I grew tired of seeing sketches of naked men over and over again.

I also had a ticket to see a “Ophelia”(a film based on the female character from Shakespeare’s Hamlet) at the museum. It took the classic story and told it from Ophelia’s perspective, rather than Hamlet’s, which was an interesting twist.

I spent the remaining time trying to see as much of the Cleveland museums’ extensive collection as possible. The armor collection features many pieces of lavishly decorated weapons and armor. I also enjoyed the ancient Egyptian and ancient Greek collection, especially the mosaics and black-figure pottery. I love the stylized contrast and sharp details of the Greek black-figure pottery. The Cleveland museum also has a collection of medieval French tapestries and Native American artifacts as well. I was inspired and awed by the craftsmanship, as well as the durability of the artifacts which had survived centuries or even millennia. The artists spoke to me across the millennia, which made ancient history seem not so abstract and lifeless. The collection is so large that I could easily spend several days to truly appreciate it all.

The museum also has one of 25 castings of Rodin’s iconic “Thinker” sculpture. In 1970, a bomb blast damaged the statue which has not been repaired. The unrestored statue speaks to the political violence and instability of the era.

I stopped for lunch at the museum café and had a very tasty tandoori chicken wrap. The wrap was overly stuffed with chicken and was very flavorful. There’s also a fine-dining restaurant as well.

The museum was originally housed in a beautiful Beaux Arts style building constructed in 1916. However, a subsequent 1971 addition created a hideous blocky exterior. A large interior atrium in between the two buildings features a small interior garden and also hosted an interesting exhibit by a Nigerian artist called Ama: the Gathering Place. The exhibit included traditional African songs, a tree sculpture and traditional textiles.

Afterwards, I explored the vicinity with the remaining daylight, including the Wade Fine Arts Garden and the Cleveland Cultural Garden trail. My first discovery was a rather unusual one, and I didn’t really know what it was until later when I did a little googling. Apparently, this is the Bloch Cancer Survivor’s Plaza. The sculpture shows 8 people passing through a series of doorways which is supposed to represent treatment and recovery. At the time, I felt rather mystified by the sculpture. The tower is a little out of place and not very appealing. At one point, a fountain and floating sphere were located underneath the tower, but only a plugged-up base remains. A number of “inspirational” quotes on plaques surround the base of the tower as well. The tower is spotted with rust and seems somewhat neglected. Inexplicably, the plaza has a single two-star review on google. Two stars might be a little harsh, but three might be more appropriate.

Apparently, the plaza is one of more than 20 built around the country by the Richard & Annette Bloch Cancer Foundation. Later, I showed my pictures to the cancer support group I attend, and their reactions were mostly perplexed and slightly repulsed (similar to mine). I found the “inspirational” quotes to be slightly cheesy, but the plaza might be more appealing if it were better maintained. Some people might find it to be uplifting, but I did not.

I also stumbled upon the Cleveland Cultural Garden trail which eventually ends near Lake Erie. The first garden was created in 1916 with the goal of creating peace through understanding. Over the decades, the number of gardens grew to more than 30 and 8 more are being planned. The gardens represent many different communities from across Europe as well as Asia and Native Americans. The gardens usually feature statues or inscriptions that honor writers, artists, philosophers or composers.

The gardens are a great idea; however, I did not find them to be very peaceful or quiet. Rather, the gardens are only a few feet away from Martin Luther King Jr. Drive which is a major roadway. Regrettably, the constant road noise did little to foster a contemplative atmosphere.

I managed to catch a scenic view of the setting sun at the nearby Lakefront Nature Preserve. Although the view was great, you can’t see the swarms of flies in my picture. In addition, Interstate 90 was a immediately behind me which also was also a distraction. Afterwards, I went in search of a snack.

I decided to try Miega Korean Barbeque, located in the “New Chinatown” neighborhood. The restaurant is in a shopping center that also houses a martial arts studio, a dance studio, an Asian grocery store and Chinese tax advisor office. I wasn’t that hungry due to my hefty lunch, so I only had some dumplings with beef, peppers and carrot that were pretty good. The kimchi was spicy but not overly so.

After all that, I finally headed out for the event that had inspired the whole trip – the Sabaton performance at the Agora Theater. Originally built in 1913, the Agora has been a significant venue in Cleveland for more than a century. A recent $3 million renovation made some major improvements, but this was my first time there. In the end, the event that inspired the whole trip was probably the least entertaining activity from the whole excursion. I had a seat in the balcony which had a good view of the stage. However, the show started late and Sabaton didn’t go on until well past my bedtime. The band’s overly macho persona is also wearing thin.

I’ve seen Sabaton several times, but this show overloaded my senses. The music was loud, and a video projected onto a screen at the back of the stage only added to the stimulus. In addition, the rows of seats were too close together, so I sat hunched up in the balcony. In the end, I could barely keep my eyes open. I left and didn’t stay for any encores. I feel so old after writing this!

On Monday, I skipped the mediocre breakfast buffet at the Tudor Arms and opted for Presti’s Bakery, a local fixture in Cleveland’s Little Italy neighborhood since 1903. I had a sausage breakfast sandwich which was very flavorful and a huge double chocolate muffin which the server warmed up. The café has lots of large windows that let in a lot of sunlight and several colorful murals that really make the interior warm and vibrant.

Before heading back to Cincinnati, I made one final stop in Cleveland. Since 2015, I have taught online world history classes for Notre Dame College(not to be confused with the famous university). Notre Dame began as a Catholic school for women and became a co-educational institution in 2001. The beautiful Administration Building was built in 1927 in the Tudor Revival. In 1983, it was added to the National Register of Historic Places due to its architectural significance.

Although I have taught for Notre Dame for more than 4 years, I had never actually been on campus before. I was hired over the phone and always worked remotely. The campus is small but very picturesque, especially with several large trees in the center of the property. The interior of the Administration Building is also beautiful, but some of the basic amenities, such as toilets and desks, are a little outdated.

On my way home, I made a short detour in Columbus to the German Village neighborhood. Nataliya and I had previously visited Schmidt’s Fudge Haus, so I stopped to surprise her with her favorite gigantic crème puff. I also picked up some delicious Belgian fudge and grabbed lunch at the nearby Brown Bag Delicatessen. I opted for the cranberry apple salad which was also enormous! I really only needed a “side salad” size as opposed to the “entrée” which I had ordered. The salad was delicious and overflowing with fresh crisp apples and cranberries.

Finally, I took a short stroll through Schiller Park since it was a beautiful fall day. It is a small park but very pretty and quiet, considering it’s in the middle of the city. The trees were full of color. Feeling refreshed, the last leg of the journey went by quickly. I was glad to be home. After my Blitz across Ohio and my weekend in NYC, I was looking forward to a few quiet weeks before Nataliya and I went to Las Vegas.

I would love to spend another weekend in Cleveland soon. As a history lover, I aim to stop at the USS Cod, which was a World War II submarine. The ship conducted seven combat patrols and became a museum ship in 1976.

I haven’t been able to drink alcohol since I began my treatment, but I would also love to visit the Great Lakes brewpub. Great Lakes was one of my favorite breweries and was the first craft brewer in Ohio. In fact, when I was first diagnosed, this had been one of the first activities I added to my “life list” (as opposed to a bucket list), since I had long considered making such a pilgrimage. I had intended to stop by on this trip but didn’t have enough time. I don’t think it would hurt to have a literal sip of something unique on tap next time.

Other attractions might include the historic Cleveland Arcade, which opened as America’s first shopping mall in 1890. The dramatic Victorian architecture features a massive skylight that rightfully earned the nickname of the “Crystal Palace.”

Nataliya and I usually visit Findlay Market in Cincinnati once or twice a month, and the West Side Market in Cleveland looks like a diverse and attractive competitor.

We both love hiking, and, unbeknownst to me, Cleveland is nicknamed the “Forest City.” Numerous parks and nature preserves are nearby, and the Cuyahoga Valley National Park looks like a lot of fun, especially with a scenic train ride.

Women’s history is one of my favorite topics, and the International Women’s Air and Space Museum might be interesting. It looks like the facility is a small, but admission is free.

Last year, Nataliya and I went to New York just to see a show with Tom Hiddleston – her favorite actor.

I had visited the city once briefly in 2016 and Nataliya has been multiple times. It was a great weekend getaway, and I look forward to returning. We learned a lot about how to travel together, and it helped prepare for our extended trip to Las Vegas.

Part I – October 2019

Nataliya bought tickets to the show and the flight for us as a delayed birthday gift to herself in October. She was worried I might think she was being too impulsive, but it was a great surprise! We flew into LaGuardia on Frontier Friday night and came back Monday morning, which I think is a perfect amount of time in the city.

Our flight was delayed an hour leaving CVG which meant we didn’t land until 11 p.m. LaGuardia resembled a war zone with construction underway as far as I could see. We hired a rideshare van to take us to our hotel which was a great idea. I could never have found my way out of the chaotic labyrinth of construction barriers. It took a little wandering to find the rendezvous point, but we counted ourselves lucky – other people waited hours for their ride. It was about 1 a.m. before we finally stumbled into our room at Pod 51 in midtown.

The room was so small I could spread my arms and touch both sides at once. But I didn’t care – we were usually so tired we just collapsed in bed each night, and tonight was no exception.

On Saturday morning, we had breakfast around the corner at Le Pain Quotidien – a boulangerie. The ginger tea and French crème donut were tasty.

Pod 51 was only about a 5-minute walk from the 51^st street subway station, which made it easy to get around. The only difficulty came when we tried to figure out which train was the right one. Nataliya was much more eager to leap on the first train that came by while I preferred to try and decipher the system. While we were initially trying to figure out the subway system, Nataliya leapt onto the first train that came while I urged her to wait until we were sure we had the right one. It was a little frustrating at first, but we both learned a lot about each other and eventually struck a good balance between our two different attitudes.

Nataliya’s first instinct was wrong, but, after one brief detour, we reached our first destination – The Vessel (TKA). Nataliya had previously walked all the way to the top, but we just stopped for a picture this time. A reservation (free) is required to enter The Vessel, but we had not booked one. Plus, I probably would only have been able to climb up two or three stories without taking some anxiety medication due to my fear of heights. Usually, I’m not a fan of modern architecture, but it is a pretty neat piece that certainly adds some novelty to the city’s landscape.

The weather was a little overcast and the temperature was about 50 degrees which made it a pretty good day to visit the High Line. The High Line is an old elevated train line that has been converted in a walking path. It stretches about 1.5 miles along the west side of Manhattan. Lots of other people had the same idea due to the nice weather, so the path was crowded. The path was very verdant! I had expected only a few planters or maybe some small garden plots at best, but the High Line was quite lush. There were several colorful art installations as well, and we saw some more interesting architecture as well. There were several kiosks selling interesting artwork and other crafts, as well as a couple food stalls. I would love to see something like this in Cincinnati! The High Line is an excellent way to renew the city’s landscape, and I look forward to seeing how the Coulée verte René-Dumont (formerly the Promenade Plantée) in Paris compares when I visit later this year (hopefully!).

After our tour, we rushed overto the Bernard Jacobs Theater to catch the matinee performance of “Betrayal,” by famed British playwright Harold Pinter. The line stretched down the block and the crowd bunched up inside the theater too. Built in 1927 in a “modern Spanish” style, the theater’s interior is lavishly decorated with murals depicting the “Lovers of Spain.”

The play is set in the 1960s and 70s and features a main cast of just three actors, including Nataliya’s favorite Tom Hiddleston. Pinter based it on his experience while conducting an affair with a television presenter. Friends joked that Nataliya was trying to send me a message…

In addition to a small cast, this production featured a minimalist stage design with almost no props or furniture. Each scene featured two characters at a time, while the third stood silently and motionless in the background. The story also occurred in reverse chronological order. It was a very innovative approach.

Afterwards, Nataliya hoped to get an autograph from Hiddleston, but we were disappointed to learn the cast did not meet with fans after matinee performances. We had dinner at Max Brenner’s near Union Square Park. We shared an unremarkable chicken quesadilla, but the main attraction at Brenner’s is actually dessert! Brenner’s features dozens of chocolate desserts including hot chocolate, milkshakes, fondue, waffles, crepes, ice cream and pizzas. I love sweets and the variety was overwhelming! We finally settled on the Waffle Celebration with a trio of waffles including strawberries and cream, banana split and hazelnut. Unbeknownst to us, the Waffle Celebration is served with sparklers! The delight on both our faces is evident. The waffles were quite heavy and decadent, and the strawberry was my favorite because it was lighter than the others.

We stopped at the Forbidden Planet, a comic book store, and the iconic Strand Book Storewhich were both conveniently right down the street from Max Brenner’s. I found a couple back issues of a series I used to read at the Forbidden Planet, which was a delightful surprise. At the Strand, I picked up a “A Very Short Introduction to Cinema History” for myself and “How to Relax” by Thich Nhat Hanh as a very early Christmas gift for Nataliya. I kept it hidden in my coat pocket all weekend and managed to sneak it home unnoticed.

Before turning in, we had one last unexpected adventure. While walking back to Pod 51, we stumbled upon Greenacre Park, which unbeknownst to us, was located directly across the street from our hotel. As we approached, Nataliya and I heard running water that sounded like a waterfall. Curious, we followed the sound and were pleasantly surprised to find a quiet, verdant pocket amongst the towers of Midtown Manhattan. The park covers about 6,300 square feet and features a soothing 25-foot waterfall lit with lamps at night. The small refuge gave us a moment to escape from the city and be alone together (or nearly so). There are dozens of similar parks scattered throughout the city, so keep your eyes peeled! Afterwards, we crossed the street and finally crept into bed.

On Sunday morning, we went back to Le Pain Quotidien for breakfast. This time, we had fragrant apple cider with cinnamon and shakshuka with quinoa (which was an interesting variation). I also tried a bowl of Greek yogurt with speculoos, harissa, cranberries and apples. It was tasty but had too many competing flavors. I liked the speculoos which is a Belgian Christmas cookie with ginger and nutmeg.

Then, we strolled up 5^th Avenue towards Central Park. The wind was whipping down the road which made it very chilly. But when we arrived at the park, things warmed up and we had a very pleasant stroll. We sat down and snacked on a leftover pain au chocolate from breakfast. I enjoyed the small moments of respite we found, while it seemed like Nataliya enjoyed being on the move.

Then, we hoped back on the subway for a minute and then walked up to the USS Intrepid aircraft carrier which is housed on the Hudson River. While crossing through Hell’s Kitchen, we had our first, and luckily only, encounter with human excrement lying in the street. An unfortunate, but quintessential, New York experience. New York is fun to visit, but I wouldn’t want to live there. It’s too crowded and way too expensive!

We only had to wait in line for 20 or 30 minutes before we could enter the Intrepid, an Essex-class aircraft carrier constructed during World War II. The tickets were a little steep ($33 each) and we also added a guided tour for an extra $15 each. But I’d been itching to go since I first saw the Intrepid while visiting the city in 2016. I also look forward to comparing it to theUSS Yorktown when we visit Charleston in 2021.

Our tour provided a general overview of the history of the Intrepid and lasted about an hour. I would have preferred the other tour that focused on the ship’s role in the Pacific Theater of World War II, but it was almost 2 hours long. Nataliya wanted something shorter, and she thought the guide was very engaging and knowledgeable. My main complaint was that the tour tried to squeeze in too much information in a very short amount of time.

However, going on the guided tour meant we got to ride up to the flight deck on the exterior elevator which was pretty cool! We also went behind the cordon and stood next to planes that were on display, which was an unexpected bonus. We couldn’t figure out how to get up to the flight control tower which was a little disappointing. Instead, the elevator took us down again. We stopped at the small deli onboard and shared a tasty roast beef sandwich that was only somewhat overpriced ($15).

Several other attractions are included with the price of admission,including the USS Growler, a Cold War submarine, and a space exhibit. Other activities are available for an additional fee including 3-D films ($7), flight simulators ($10) and a Concorde jet exhibit ($7). Members get free admission to the Intrepid, discounts at the museum store and reduced prices on additional exhibits. We did not visit the Growler, but I’d like to the next time I visit the city. If we hadn’t been in a hurry, we might have stuck around longer.

But we jumped on the subway again and headed down to Chinatown. The main goal was to see a movie at the Metrograph – a combination retro movie theater and restaurant. I like classic movies and the Metrograph specializes in old 35mm pictures. I also found the retro décor appealing as well. The cinema also includes an eclectic candy selection and a small collection of books for sale. The book corner is misleadingly described as a “store” but really is not much more than a few shelves.

However, the film we wanted to see was sold out, and the other choices were unappealing. Instead, we wandered around Chinatown for a while which was very enlightening. I thought that Chinatown had begun to gentrify, but it still felt like entering a foreign country. Nataliya and I suddenly became the minority and all the street signs were in Chinese. There was even a statue of Confucius in a small park. We decided to stop for dinner but ran out of luck. Every restaurant we stopped at was cash only and we didn’t have enough money on hand to pay. Rather than wander around looking for an ATM, we went back to Pod 51. It was quite a surreal experience!

We eventually ate at Le Bateau Ivre (translation: the drunk boat) a French restaurant right next to our hotel. Nataliya is more budget-minded, but she let me indulge in a pricey dinner here with coq au vin for her (chicken stew – $29) and cotes d’agneau for me (lamb chops – $42). It was a slight letdown because my lamb chops were quite small and Nataliya was disappointed in her chicken.

The next morning, we got up early so the shuttle van could take us back to LaGuardia. Our flight back to CVG was smooth. Overall, it was a very successful and fun trip! Nataliya and I both learned a lot about each other. For instance, she prefers to jump in and take action instead of deliberating too much (which is my preference). I prefer to stop and savor the moment, while Nataliya likes to keep moving. Regardless, we learned to rely on each other and work together. The trip was also a good introduction to traveling together and helped prepare us for our weeklong trip to Las Vegas in December.

Part II – July 2016

I had previously spent about 36 hours in New York in 2016 which was also very fun but too brief. The American Museum of Natural History had an amazing collection of dinosaur bones. However, “Sleep No More” was the real highlight. This immersive play allows spectators to wander through the massive five-story converted warehouse that spans more than 100 rooms and 100,000 square feet. Tickets aren’t cheap ($140), but it’s worth it. About 25 actors move throughout the space, called the McKittrick Hotel, and perform a loose adaptation of Shakespeare’s Macbeth in a 1930s era setting. The story resets every hour for three hours and allows spectators to see different parts of the massive performance each time. The totally immersive setting enables spectators to rummage through drawers in search of clues since performers do not acknowledge or interact with spectators, except in special moments called “1:1.”

I was lucky enough to have one such experience. One of the performers, a man in suit, was standing in front of a mirror talking to himself. I stood behind him and watched. We made eye contact and the performer grabbed my hand as he dashed out of the room. We ran together down the halls towards the dramatic, horrific conclusion of the performance.

I’d love to go back again, and the Tenement Museum, which documents immigrant life in the city, is at the top of my list. Hopefully, we can also make it to the Metrograph on time.

In June 2019, Nataliya and I went on an “African safari” and came face to face with a rhino!

The best part – the safari park was only 3 hours from Cincinnati and tickets are only cost $30 per person. In reality, we visited The Wilds – a non-profit conservation center near Zanesville. I first heard about The Wilds a couple years ago and it has been on my “life list” (as opposed to a bucket list) ever since. The Wilds covers encompasses more than 9,000 acres of reclaimed coal mine land and houses several dozen different species of African and Asian wildlife, including giraffes, cheetahs, rhinos and zebras.

Nataliya and I booked a regular safari tour on an open-air converted bus. Our driver served as our guide as well and offered lots of insightful commentary. He was very friendly and knowledgeable.

Almost immediately, we came face to face with a rhino! Our driver said she had only ever come so close to his bus once before. We could have reached out and rubbed her leathery hide! Her lumbering approach certainly inspired a sense of fear and respect in her mighty presence. Later, a few Przewalski’s wild horses came alongside the bus, but they were not nearly as interesting as a rhino. Our driver warned us against petting the wild horses since they might try to munch anything that came within reach.

The Wilds also includes an area with several enclosures where predators, such as cheetahs and African Painted Dogs, are housed. The enclosures are quite spacious and give the animals a lot of room to roam. There is also a small bird house that visitors can enter and be swarmed by tiny, colorful birds. Otherwise, the animals tended to keep their distance so don’t expect to have close encounters the entire time!

However, a Wild Side safari is the best way to guarantee a tour filled with close encounters. We saw one Wild Side safari in action and, although they cost $125 per person, they are worth it! Instead of large converted buses, you ride in a converted pickup truck for Wild Side safaris. The driver took the Wild Side group off-road and stopped right next to a giraffe while our bus stuck to the road. The Wild Side safari guide gave one participant some sort of treat to feed the giraffe which gobbled it up, licking the benefactor in the process with its big purple tongue! Participants get to pick where they go and what they do on a Wild Side tour. During the winter, Wild Side tours are available for a buy one get one free discount.

There are a variety of other specialty tours, including zipline, horseback and fishing tours.The ziplines connect a series of observation platforms that tower above the pastures. Prices vary from $54-$84 depending on what type of zipline tour you pick. The fishing safari is 4 hours long and costs from $75-$100. Horseback safaris are $30 and last an hour. However, a guide at The Wilds told me the horseback safaris are more about riding than seeing the park.

The weather was very pleasant in June, but the buses are almost totally exposed to the elements. There is a roof, but if it’s cold or wet you need to dress appropriately! The park is very remote and cellphone service is very poor. You need to book a tour ahead of time – at least several weeks ahead during the peak summer season. Despite using GPS, we still got a little lost on the backroads.

We stayed on the east side of Columbus the night before and drove over in the morning. It took about 75 minutes, so it might be a good idea to stay in Zanesville. You could also drive up and back on the same day, but that’s at least 6 hours on the road!If you want a true safari experience, you can stay overnight at The Wilds in their cabins; however, they are obscenely expensive – more than $300 a night in the off season with a membership discount! Members also get a discount on specialty tours and free open-air tours.

Nataliya and I opted to make it a weekend trip by staying in Columbus. The day before visiting The Wilds, we stopped at the Columbus Museum of Art. The museum is a little small compared to the Cincinnati or Cleveland art museums, especially considering the $18 ticket price. The museum is housed in a beautiful Second Renaissance Revival building constructed in 1931. However, the back of the building is a rather ugly modern façade. I’m usually not a fan of modern art, but the “driftwood” horse was actually very interesting. Upon closer inspection, a docent showed us the horse is made from bronze. Even when he showed us some of the welding seams, it was hard to believe it wasn’t really wood!

After spending the day at The Wilds, we went back to Columbus for dinner and a show at Shadowbox Live. Shadowbox is the largest resident ensemble theater company in country and produces an array of rock musicals and sketch comedy performances, with lots of sexual innuendo and crude humor.Shadowbox operates with a very interesting model where performers are also the waitstaff. We shared a table with another couple, and it took a while for them to get their food. However, I had a steak salad and it was very tasty.

Overall, it was a great weekend, and we look forward to returning – especially for a Wild Side safari!

My two trips to Hocking Hills, in October 2018 and again in July 2019, show how you can have a different experience in the same place. Both were fun although I think the second trip with Nataliya was probably better.

Part I – October 2018

The first time I went with my parents. We took I-71 up to Washington Court House and then got on US 35 to US 23. I strongly suggest just taking I-71 all the way to Columbus and then taking I-270 to US 33, like Nataliya and I did later on. It’s just as fast and a lot more comfortable. I almost got car sick (which hasn’t happened for years) when dad insisted on driving the hilly, twisting back roads!

In 2018, my parents and I stayed at the Holiday Inn Express in the nearby town of Logan. There aren’t a lot of hotels nearby although there are quite a few cabins for rent.

The hotel was fine and there were several restaurants nearby. We had dinner at Millstone Southern Smoked BBQ which was very crowded and loud due to an OSU football game.

The meal was good and afterwards dad and I sampled a few beers at Brewery 33, which was also within walking distance. Brewery 33 is very small but had a good selection of basic beers. This was back when I could still drink – alas! In fact, I don’t really miss it much although there are days when I really need a beer after work!

The next day, we hiked 3 trails in Hocking Hills State Park. Old Man’s Cave is the most popular spot and was our first stop. There is a large parking lot, but it quickly fills up. The visitors center was then under construction but would open only a few weeks before my return trip in 2019.

Old Man’s Cave is named for a recess inhabited by an early settler of the region in 1790s. The trail is only about a half mile long but is usually very crowded. Along the way, you’ll encounter the Devil’s Bathtub – an interesting whirlpool that supposedly swirls down to Hades (the underworld).

The trail descends from the parking lot into the canyon and the Upper Falls. At the bottom, the trail is cooler and easy to walk until you reach the lower falls. Hiking beyond the Lower Falls can be moderately strenuous. I elected to continue and see the Lower Falls while my parents opted to take a break. From the Lower Falls, the trail becomes part of the 6-mile Grandma Gatewood Trail, which connects several other trailheads in the park.

Instead of continuing along the loop, we got back in our car and stopped at Cedar Falls next. The parking lot is much smaller than at Old Man’s Cave and has a small bathroom and shelter. Cedar Falls is a magnificent 50-foot waterfall but is a misnomer because the early settlers of the region mistook the hemlock trees for cedars.

The trail is only half a mile but descends steeply down to the falls. A mathematician designed the steps to make them as comfortable as possible, although climbing back up is strenuous. The trail was also popular as well including a swarm of approximately 50 shirtless teenagers who went jogging by – apparently some sort of high school sports team in training.

Ash Cave was our final stop on the first trip. There are several small parking lots nearby with restrooms. The path to the cave is paved and only about a quarter mile long, although a half-mile trail loop also ascends along the upper edge of the cave. Ash Cave is named for the large piles of ash found in the cave by early settlers, which probably accumulated from fires lit by Native Americans over the centuries.

Ash Cave is the largest recess cave in the state which is readily apparent as you approach. The massive cave is shaped like a horseshoe and stretches 700 feet from end to end. It rises 90 feet tall and is 100 feet deep. A large mound, called the Pulpit Rock, sits in the middle and provides a good view of this unique geological feature. Ash Cave was also busy, and a large group of people had set up folding chairs. Several people were playing drums and other musical instruments which rippled through the air due to the cave’s acoustics.

Part II – July 2019

Even though Hocking Hills is a relatively small park, I still had a fun time the second time around less than a year later. Nataliya and I took a different approach in several respects. First, we stayed at the Holiday Inn Express in Athens. It was a bit cheaper than Logan but also a 45-minute drive to the park. However, Athens (pop. 25,000) also offered amenities than Logan (pop. 7,000).

Athens is home to Jackie O’s Brewery, which produces one of my favorite beers – Razz Wheat (American raspberry wheat ale). In addition, Nataliya and I tried a flight of bourbon barrel beers which is one of my favorite styles. I was also extremely fortunate to have a brief window where the side effects of my medication were mild, and I could have a few sips (literally). I had a delicious salad with chicken and apples. The Rueben egg rolls were also amazing too.

After dinner, we wandered around the campus of Ohio University for a little while, which was very beautiful and quiet at night. Since it was summer, the campus was nearly deserted.Then, we went around the corner to see a movie at the Athena Cinema, a small historic theater. We decided to see “The Art of Self-Defense” which was a little ham-handed.

The next morning, we started our hike at Old Man’s Cave again. The new visitor’s center (a fire destroyed the previous building in 2016) had opened only a few weeks before and included some interesting displays on the history and ecology of the Hocking Hills region. It also features a gift shop which sells ice cream – a tasty treat after a hot hike.

Even though we partly recovered my tracks from 2018, Old Man’s Cave is still a lot of fun and Nataliya loved it since this was her first trip. This time, we continued along the trail after reaching the Lower Falls and headed along the Grandma Gatewood Loop towards Whispering Cave. This recess cave is about 300 long and sometimes has a waterfall in the center (which was not flowing when we visited). A few parts of the trail were moderately strenuous. We reconnected to the Grandma Gatewood loop and hiked back to Cedar Falls. The main attractions were very busy, but the Grandma Gatewood Trail had less traffic, although it was not totally empty.

Rose Lake was our last stop before returning to Old Man’s Cave. There is a sharp climb up to the reservoir, but it is not very long. Fishing is allowed at Rose Lake with a valid permit, but swimming is not. The lake was very quiet and pretty which makes it a great spot for a short rest. By the time we returned, we probably spent about 4 hours hiking and covered about 7 miles. My legs were tired – this was my longest trek in years!

Nataliya and I plan to go back again since there are still several destinations to visit, including Cantwell Cliffs, the Rock House and Conkle’s Hollow. In addition, there are numerous other parks and forests nearby, including Wayne National Forest. The Sherman House in Lancaster is about 30 minutes from Hocking Hills. It is the birthplace of Civil War general William Tecumseh Sherman and is another place I’d like to visit as well.